20-09-2015, 01:32 PM
The Fuchs Titan Pro S stuff was a Fully Ester Synthetic 5w/40 which caused it to leak, I've since used Millers CFS, Aeroshell Diesel (lol) and towards the end I stuck on Gulf Competition 5w/40, all of which are Fully Ester Synthetics which didn't make the leak worse, had I have kept on with Titan Pro S, it'd have pissed all the oil all over the floor within minutes - it just eat the vacuum pump seals.
"Fully Synthetic" really means very little.
Whether it'll leak is all to do with the additives in the oil, which changes brand to brand - there also needs to be a distinction made between "Fully Synthetic" and "Fully Ester Synthetic" since they're two quite different things.
HDis I thought the factory recommended Total Quartz 9000 as the oil they were certified on... Which is a 5w/40 "Fully Synthetic".
The 5w/40 or "fully synthetic" doesn't really show the full picture anyway, that's merely the viscosity at two temperature points, and whether it's base stock is a certain proportion that came out the ground, or whether it's chains were made in a laboratory. It's easy to make an oil fit two temperature points, it's what happens to that oil when the oil is past those temperature points that really matters, especially if you're tuning an engine - the better the oil, the more stable it is at extremes of temperature and in Diesels how good those additives are at dealing with excessive fuel in the oil and screwing with the ability to protect the bearing surfaces with high concentrations of fuel in it.
"Fully Synthetic" really means very little.
Whether it'll leak is all to do with the additives in the oil, which changes brand to brand - there also needs to be a distinction made between "Fully Synthetic" and "Fully Ester Synthetic" since they're two quite different things.
HDis I thought the factory recommended Total Quartz 9000 as the oil they were certified on... Which is a 5w/40 "Fully Synthetic".
The 5w/40 or "fully synthetic" doesn't really show the full picture anyway, that's merely the viscosity at two temperature points, and whether it's base stock is a certain proportion that came out the ground, or whether it's chains were made in a laboratory. It's easy to make an oil fit two temperature points, it's what happens to that oil when the oil is past those temperature points that really matters, especially if you're tuning an engine - the better the oil, the more stable it is at extremes of temperature and in Diesels how good those additives are at dealing with excessive fuel in the oil and screwing with the ability to protect the bearing surfaces with high concentrations of fuel in it.
