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darrenjlobb's Rolling Road Chassis Dyno Project
Piggy,

If I was going to do anything I would likely get the roller paint removed entirely and get the rollers grooved, but will see how traction is first, likely woudlnt be worth the expense of having it grooved, am hoping it will hold down what I need it to for now.... The paint makes very little difference / lasts five minutes..

I did acaully look into sacking off the water brakes and using a Eddy Current retarder, but unless you get a modern water cooled unit, they are fairly hopeless for steady state tuning, as they just get hot / burn up, and to get a decent one would cost mega bucks...that, and I do quite like the concept of the water brakes themselves.

Anyway, bit more of an update,

I have managed to source a near enough brand new stator, to replace the bad one, the bad news is its currently at Ruans, as he has picked it up for me, and given its level of rareness, I genuinely don't trust the UK postage service with it, so have decided to wait until xmas when I see Ruan to get that, so I cant re assemble the other water brake until then.

The cummins project is taking up most free time, the engine is now "in the landy" although not yet "on the mounts", and until it is, it has to stay outside as its to heavy for my engine crane inside so tractor only, so for that reason, dark evenings put that project to one side, so have found a bit of time to just do a few other bits and bobs to the dyno.

This evening have been working on the air control for the air brakes to let you drive on / off the dyno, and also building a hang controller for the dyno in general. I don't have an original Clayton one sadly (as win / retro as that would be) so am making use of an old winch hand control, adding some buttons, converting all the dyno to 12v control etc.

So step one was to mount another regulator, my workshops main air line is regulated, but unless im painting / doing something that requires set pressure, we generally run it at 200psi etc, to make impact guns "work", this is far and above the rated pressure for the air bags on the air brakes, so decided it would be best to put the dyno feed on its own regulator to keep things safe. So mounted that on the wall, and some fittings / solenoids for control:

[Image: OLRZnmOQO80d8L0bSSzBuxn1jCeyDLvkfzukJu5o...40-h987-no]

[Image: IMG_20141127_182446.jpg]

The solenoid to the left is to air up, and the top one is to air down (vent).

This is the hand controller im dealing with:

[Image: IMG_20141127_183043.jpg]

Cut the plastic bit off, and made some new holes:

[Image: IMG_20141127_183754.jpg]

Mounted some new switchs, the top pair are to air up / down the air brakes, and lower buttons are to load / unload the water brakes:

[Image: IMG_20141127_184648.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20141127_184653.jpg]

Quick bit of wiring, Used some spare trailer wiring, ideal for the job as nice heavy duty outer sheaf, but has 7 internal cores, which leaves a few spare for future functions (go button for computer software etc)

[Image: IMG_20141127_190227.jpg]

Few standard issue nails on the wall to "store" the controller and job is done, no, its not pretty, but it gets the job done / fits its purpose!

[Image: IMG_20141127_200704.jpg]


Next step is to mount up the vfd's for extraction, and the water pump, start some of the main plumbing on the water pump etc, and get one of the brakes into the chassis etc.

Thanks for reading Smile
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[Image: sigi-2.png]
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RE: darrenjlobb's Rolling Road Chassis Dyno Project - by darrenjlobb - 27-11-2014, 09:29 PM

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