Right. I forked out £85 for a PP2000 cable and software - managed to get it working and connecting to the car
However, it doesn't get a reply from the ECU.
If I do a global test the BSI has a permanent fault "No Reply. Engine management control unit"
I tried going through the procedure to re-learn all the keys and everything goes fine until the last step where it tries to save the changes and again it says no response from the ECU.
I'm guessing at this point it's either the ECU that's dead or a wiring fault.
Somewhere I found a guide that said to check if there's 5v at pin 1 and 29 on the ECU. I unplugged the ECU connector and checked for voltage and got nothing. BUT with the ECU unplugged there's no engine management light on the dash. As soon as I plug the ECU back in the engine management light comes on and you can hear other relays and pumps and things fire up. So it kinda suggest there is power getting to the ECU.
Could it still be an immobiliser fault? As far as I understand it the chip is read from the key by the transponder, code sent to the BSI and then the BSI relays that code to the ECU. So maybe the wire from the BSI to the ECU has broken or maybe the ECU's immobilser circuitry is fried?
I found an ecu and key set on ebay but it's got a code of 0281010249 and ours has a code of 0281010362 - does anyone know if that matters?
Thanks for any help - it's getting a bit frustrating now lol
Right... so I've pulled the 15 pin multi-relay off and checked pins 3,8,11 and 15 - all have power from the battery.
But checking pins 1,29 and 69 on the ecu plug with the key in - only pin 69 has 12v - 1 & 29 are dead.
So I'm thinking this is starting to look like the brown multi-relay has packed up and isn't sending power to the ecu?
However, it doesn't get a reply from the ECU.
If I do a global test the BSI has a permanent fault "No Reply. Engine management control unit"
I tried going through the procedure to re-learn all the keys and everything goes fine until the last step where it tries to save the changes and again it says no response from the ECU.
I'm guessing at this point it's either the ECU that's dead or a wiring fault.
Somewhere I found a guide that said to check if there's 5v at pin 1 and 29 on the ECU. I unplugged the ECU connector and checked for voltage and got nothing. BUT with the ECU unplugged there's no engine management light on the dash. As soon as I plug the ECU back in the engine management light comes on and you can hear other relays and pumps and things fire up. So it kinda suggest there is power getting to the ECU.
Could it still be an immobiliser fault? As far as I understand it the chip is read from the key by the transponder, code sent to the BSI and then the BSI relays that code to the ECU. So maybe the wire from the BSI to the ECU has broken or maybe the ECU's immobilser circuitry is fried?
I found an ecu and key set on ebay but it's got a code of 0281010249 and ours has a code of 0281010362 - does anyone know if that matters?
Thanks for any help - it's getting a bit frustrating now lol
Quote:Pins 33,49,51 and 53 should all be grounded, so check for continuity between these and battery negative. Pins 1, 29 and 69 should be 0v. with ignition off, battery voltage with ignition on. I was told a missing live on one of these pins was a likely cause of the problem - 2 were dead on mine! If only 1 is dead, it was suggested I borrow a live feed from one which was working. Pin 86 should be battery volts with ignition off, 0v. with ignition on. Pin 87 should be 0v. with ignition off, o-1v. for 2 secs when ignition is switched on, then battery voltage.
As I had several incorrect readings, it was suggested the relay next to the ECU could be faulty. This is the only other electrical item in the black plastic box holding the ECU. The connector can be removed by pulling out (sideways) the metal clip, using a screwdriver. The pins are numbered on the connector. Pins 3,8,11 and 15 should be permanent battery voltage (I got correct readings there!) When the relay is activated, I was told pins 1,2,5 and 9 should be live out from the relay. There must be some discrepancy there, as position 5 in the connector has no pin at all! The theory was to test for a relay fault by replacing it with copper link wires. I linked the permanently live pins to 1,2 and 9 and the engine fired once but no more. However, on removing the links and replacing the relay, the engine ran normally, and has started every time since. I can only presume that by pushing copper wires into the connector I have removed some corrosion from the relay connector. Information courtesy of Chris at TotalTuning, Pontypridd.
Right... so I've pulled the 15 pin multi-relay off and checked pins 3,8,11 and 15 - all have power from the battery.
But checking pins 1,29 and 69 on the ecu plug with the key in - only pin 69 has 12v - 1 & 29 are dead.
So I'm thinking this is starting to look like the brown multi-relay has packed up and isn't sending power to the ecu?