10-02-2012, 08:20 AM
OK I CBA to read the thread but the two ways are,
1- the proper way - this is to pull the torsion bars out, raise the suspension using a jack to the required height and then rotate the bar until it slots back in again
advantages of this are that you don't disturb the bearings for the trailing arms and you can put the car at any height you want as you can rotate the bar until it goes in at both ends)
disadvantages of this method is that its more involved, a bit fiddly and generally harder to do than just smashing the arms off!
2 - the pikey way - this is reserved for when the above isn't going to plan or for when your a pikey! it involves using a BFO hammer and smashing the inside of the trailing arms (after removing the bolts obviously) which knocks the trailing arm out of the beam tube and will pull one end of the bar free.
advantages of this method are that its relatively easy to do and normally works if you hit it hard enough.
disadvantages of doing it like this is that you can only lower the car in massive steps as you only get one end of the torsion bar free so you have only one spline at a time of adjustment, (IIRC its something like 30mm, 50mm, 80mm) vs putting it where you like with the above method, the other problem doing it like this is that you are disturbing the bearings in the rear beam by removing and re-fitting the trailing arms, if the bearings are worn the are likely to drop to bits when you remove the trailing arm meaning that you can't put it back together or more likely not go back quite right resulting in the bearings wearing out almost instantly giving you the dreaded rear camber!
Hope that helps, obviously all of the above is IMO but this is speaking from experience
1- the proper way - this is to pull the torsion bars out, raise the suspension using a jack to the required height and then rotate the bar until it slots back in again
advantages of this are that you don't disturb the bearings for the trailing arms and you can put the car at any height you want as you can rotate the bar until it goes in at both ends)
disadvantages of this method is that its more involved, a bit fiddly and generally harder to do than just smashing the arms off!
2 - the pikey way - this is reserved for when the above isn't going to plan or for when your a pikey! it involves using a BFO hammer and smashing the inside of the trailing arms (after removing the bolts obviously) which knocks the trailing arm out of the beam tube and will pull one end of the bar free.
advantages of this method are that its relatively easy to do and normally works if you hit it hard enough.
disadvantages of doing it like this is that you can only lower the car in massive steps as you only get one end of the torsion bar free so you have only one spline at a time of adjustment, (IIRC its something like 30mm, 50mm, 80mm) vs putting it where you like with the above method, the other problem doing it like this is that you are disturbing the bearings in the rear beam by removing and re-fitting the trailing arms, if the bearings are worn the are likely to drop to bits when you remove the trailing arm meaning that you can't put it back together or more likely not go back quite right resulting in the bearings wearing out almost instantly giving you the dreaded rear camber!
Hope that helps, obviously all of the above is IMO but this is speaking from experience