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		Got a t25 and I'm wanting to use the water cooling on it as it extend the life of the turbo I'd imagine! And so where would the best place to be to tap into the engine coolant system. From what iv read previously the heater matrix pipes arent a clever idea. And so I'm thinking of tapping into oil cooler pipes at the back of the block iirc iv got 2 that run from the back to front Any Objections? And I'd assume I'd be safer running inlet and outlet on seperate pipes?
 Cheers
 
Perv 106 1.4 xs First Pug Love - Scrapped 
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173bhp T25 Ph1 Diablo Dturbo - Scrapped  
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		... hmm how are you going to exchange heat between the turbo and water?
 Tapping into the water system isn't so much of an issue i would presume, as much as it is fitting a cooling system on a turbo?
 
 You got any mock ups of how this is going to work, intrigued.
 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		ginge191 Wrote:... hmm how are you going to exchange heat between the turbo and water?
 Tapping into the water system isn't so much of an issue i would presume, as much as it is fitting a cooling system on a turbo?
 
 You got any mock ups of how this is going to work, intrigued.
 
They are built into the turbo central bearing assembly ginge, the TD04's have them but I couldn't see the point in connecting it for our applications and the PITA required to get it working properly and mine is perfectly fine after a year on my car so go figure...........
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I'm not bothering with mine, seems far to much hastle than it's worth for me, but if your willing go for it.
	 
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		Didn't bother with mine on the TD04 either.
	 
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		No water cooling FTW... yeh as said, its not really needed ...
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Dave Wrote:No water cooling FTW... yeh as said, its not really needed ... 
Ohhh dave... are two turbos needed, are superchargers needed, are modified fuel pumps needed...
 
/canofworms
    
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		ginge191 Wrote:Dave Wrote:No water cooling FTW... yeh as said, its not really needed ... Ohhh dave... are two turbos needed, are superchargers needed, are modified fuel pumps needed...
 
 /canofworms
 
 
  
Is 290HP needed, yes yes and yes!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Dave Wrote:Is 290HP needed, yes yes and yes! ![[Image: images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT-Jczp-u5EL3SJv-JqNhz...Av6WA-lh9w]](http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT-Jczp-u5EL3SJv-JqNhzQAzf37_ilXqARaB8TO_QsJIUWL_VqAv6WA-lh9w)  
More what i was saying, is that it's nice to see people doing original things to their engines, rather than the same ol' "-40mm on clones" situation     
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I would hardly consider having water cooling to be an obscure variant to what people typically do though ...
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Dave Wrote:I would hardly consider having water cooling to be an obscure variant to what people typically do though ... Or a worthwhile one............. especially since it has much cooler gasses passing though it compared to being used in the petrol application it was designed for!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		What are people doing instead, just leave it open or fill it with oil then blank it over?
	 
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		londondan86 Wrote:What are people doing instead, just leave it open or fill it with oil then blank it over? 
just connect the oil feed and return and leave the water connections with nothing in, the oil provides sufficient cooling for what we need as a general rule TBH    
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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83 Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
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		Water cooling is only for after switchoff... It's a thermal syphon effect...
 The oil will take any of the heat load that needs to be dissipated... The water doesn't come into contact with the bearings, it doesn't cool them... It purely cools the CHRA slightly...
 
 Don't think about putting it on the heater matrix return, because it'll cock it up... The water cooling systems on these engines are surprisingly more thought about than you think - they're not just a bunch of pipes, some water, a radiator and a pump, leave them standard, or you'll cock it up... They're finely balanced between allowing enough water through the heater matrix when they're cold - enough to stop the head boiling before the thermostat opens, but restrictive enough that when the thermostat opens, it goes through the radiator, not just taking the easy option through the heater matrix, and boiling the head when hot...
 
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE 
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Right so in essence it's not needed in a Dervs due to low charge temps. But after the engine has been run to syphon heat away that the oil isn't due to it not being circulated.
 If I was to connect it up I wouldn't have been connecting it too the heater matrix system as mentioned before but more likely on the oil cooler hoses. It's something that I can rule out for time being then keeps cost down and messing around!
 
Perv 106 1.4 xs First Pug Love - Scrapped 
Perv 306 1.6 5 Door Hore - Sold  
110bhp 207 Hdi Sport - Used as a Brake 
173bhp T25 Ph1 Diablo Dturbo - Scrapped  
Thirsty Bitch Volvo 850 Estate - Sold  
51bhp Berlingo Nad DT Van - Sold 
Slow as f*ck Dispatch Work Horse
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		Just leave it cool off for the last 5 mins of driving, you should be doing this anyway to cool off the oil etc... But doing it will stop you shagging the turbo...
	 
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE 
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Couldnt you make a seperate system with header tank and an electric pump? or is that just a waste of time?
	 
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off ![[Image: attachment.php?aid=5522]](http://306oc.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?aid=5522)  
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Waste of time.
	 
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