When your giving your dturbo some beans how much does the temp rise to?
And do you show mechanical sympathy and let it cool abit before going for a blast again?
mine goes up to around the 90 mark before i let off and it goes back down to 75-80 but just wondering if other people do the same.
And yes i know that the cooling system can only get rid of so much heat at a time and that's why it rises when giving it beans and is normal operating characteristic of a water cooled car but am i being overly cautious? lol
my fans come on at 90 so it stays at 90 or drops even when still booting it.... remember the thermostat opens at 83 so 90 isnt much to worry about
mine never seems to go over 85, if im going 110 down an A road for a period of time it might creep just above 90 but i dont do that regularly. must have a healthy engine
(15-11-2012, 11:40 PM)Ricky Wrote: [ -> ]I stop booting it at 90.
Just like me so i'm not the only one
(16-11-2012, 12:04 AM)pistolpete Wrote: [ -> ]my fans come on at 90 so it stays at 90 or drops even when still booting it.... remember the thermostat opens at 83 so 90 isnt much to worry about
yea i know but i try to err on the side of caution, i've deleted my air con but wired the switch so when i press it my low speed fans come on
(16-11-2012, 07:54 AM)therefused Wrote: [ -> ]mine never seems to go over 85, if im going 110 down an A road for a period of time it might creep just above 90 but i dont do that regularly. must have a healthy engine
the temp will always creep up. going from my experience you could turn your max fuel up more then lol
i stop booting at 90 as well, just coz i know the temp will continue to rise if i don't . .
also every one this is the XUD section . . . . .just thought i'd mention that . .:p
i put the heaters on full when i boot it and it stays around 90
i would rather cook than let the engine cook but if it does go above 90 then i back off to let it cool down
If it gets above 90 and you boot it, you WILL kill the hg. /thread.
Wonder if people with front mounts/lower charge temps see the same temp rise when hooning?
^^Yes; the charge temps running through the fmic heat the air before it goes through the water radiator, hence its ability to get rid of the heat is reduced. It also upsets the flow of air through the rad unless the fmic is actually touching the rad, reducing the rad's efficiency further.
Mine sits at 70-80 and rarely hits 90 unless really giving it some for long periods of time this temp sensor may be incorrect lol but have hit 100+ a few times and its been ok lol
Yes.
Mine will sit at 85 all day and do nothing. I can (boot it) and some times it will stay there but after a while it will start its slow rise towards 90. It does not really go over 90, but I do tend to let off after a while.
Though I have noticed that I can cruise at higher speed and it will stay at 83ish.
70 everywhere, 80 if i push it. Hardly
I can get the fans on every journey lol
i have noticed that on the smaller turbo the heat rise is more pronounced but it may also be due to the fact i'm running a harder stage 1 as there is so little time off boost which means way less smoke lol
i think the people on bigger turbo's won't get a temp rise so much as due to it being more efficent but the trade off is more lag. i've been thinking for a while a gt17 is a good compromise, a bit more power and efficency to be gained but not as laggy as a bigger blower. plus they are cheap can get one from a saab or vag....
BTW CJ your brave letting it go up to 100+ lol
(16-11-2012, 11:58 AM)Kwik Wrote: [ -> ]i think the people on bigger turbo's won't get a temp rise so much as due to it being more efficent but the trade off is more lag.
But because there is more lag, I'm having to rev it more and harder to get going anywhere as well. Trust me, when I come onto boost, my temperature shoots through the roof...even if I'm not raping the thing, as without the boost it's pretty dreadful and boggy...
There's also obviously a difference between efficiency of the turbo (affecting it's charge temperature) and the temperature of the engine/coolant...
There's just a more variables to consider really...
(16-11-2012, 12:11 PM)Matty Wrote: [ -> ] (16-11-2012, 11:58 AM)Kwik Wrote: [ -> ]i think the people on bigger turbo's won't get a temp rise so much as due to it being more efficent but the trade off is more lag.
But because there is more lag, I'm having to rev it more and harder to get going anywhere as well. Trust me, when I come onto boost, my temperature shoots through the roof...even if I'm not raping the thing, as without the boost it's pretty dreadful and boggy...
There's also obviously a difference between efficiency of the turbo (affecting it's charge temperature) and the temperature of the engine...
I never thought about it like that i thought more efficient turbo less EGT's but if you have to rev it harder then yea high EGT's will still be present even more so with lag.
How much does your temp go up to then matty?
But we're discussing coolant temperature really...not EGT's...
I'm saying, efficient turbos etc. isn't the only variable you can consider. There's differences in everyone's cars on here and how people drive and the outside temp. of where people are etc etc etc.
Like condition of radiators etc. When I changed mine a while back, it made a huge difference as my old one wasn't pretty. I'm sure loads 306's on here have similar problems. Both DT's I've had on stage 1 tunes, roughly the same boost/turbo (not going to be identical I know...) had completely different coolant temperatures and the way it came up and down as well...
Our cars are just too old and have aged differently & also been fiddled with
sorry my post came across wrong i should've put the relationship between EGT's and coolant temp lol my bad.
i got a brand new rad on mine and it reduced operating temp by 8-10 degrees! but i also changed engine from dhy to dhx maybe the dhx runs cooler adding to such a massive operating temp drop?
well well well
Adjusted my LDA for more economy/less smoke and temperature rises alot slower and engine runs cooler.
May be a point of interest for some
(26-11-2012, 11:15 AM)Kwik Wrote: [ -> ]well well well
Adjusted my LDA for more economy/less smoke and temperature rises alot slower and engine runs cooler.
May be a point of interest for some
well less smoke=lower EGT's=lower engine temps . . :p
hehe i know but just thought i'd share with everyone :p
Most of this difference will be thermostats causing issues...
Just remember that with IDI engines you cannot just concentrate on the indicated coolant temperature, as the heat is very intense in the precombistion chamber, it causes a massive heat load in a small area... This is where the IDI design is let down, you must keep this cool otherwise you can expect issues with cracking heads, uneven expansion and contraction... The biggest factor in heat from what I've seen is EGTs and backpressure, if you have a small turbo and are spinning the engine fast, its a recipe for VERY high temperatures... IMHO lift off at 88*c, they want to run ay 83c so if the temperature is increasing to 88, you need to be ridiculously careful ad you're going to damage the head in the long term with the hot spots in the head....
Used to have issues with heatsoak in traffic jams / slow moving traffic whilst I had my T2+TMIC in summer.
Hasn't been a problem since fitting the FMIC though.
Really have to constantly rag it to get anywhere near 90*c though.
I've got into the habit of whacking heaters on full heat, full speed when giving it the beans.
(It helps?)
(26-11-2012, 01:12 PM)silverzx Wrote: [ -> ]I've got into the habit of whacking heaters on full heat, full speed when giving it the beans. (It helps?)
true story . . . . ..
Ive never seen more than 90 even with the intercooler completely obstructing the rad and prolonged periods of full boost. Once It hits 90 the high. Speed fans kick in and the temp starts heading back to the low 80s region
(26-11-2012, 01:07 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]Most of this difference will be thermostats causing issues...
Just remember that with IDI engines you cannot just concentrate on the indicated coolant temperature, as the heat is very intense in the precombistion chamber, it causes a massive heat load in a small area... This is where the IDI design is let down, you must keep this cool otherwise you can expect issues with cracking heads, uneven expansion and contraction... The biggest factor in heat from what I've seen is EGTs and backpressure, if you have a small turbo and are spinning the engine fast, its a recipe for VERY high temperatures... IMHO lift off at 88*c, they want to run ay 83c so if the temperature is increasing to 88, you need to be ridiculously careful ad you're going to damage the head in the long term with the hot spots in the head....
That's why i back off at 90c as i don't want to cook anything!
(26-11-2012, 01:12 PM)silverzx Wrote: [ -> ]Used to have issues with heatsoak in traffic jams / slow moving traffic whilst I had my T2+TMIC in summer.
Hasn't been a problem since fitting the FMIC though.
Really have to constantly rag it to get anywhere near 90*c though.
I've got into the habit of whacking heaters on full heat, full speed when giving it the beans. (It helps?)
LOL I hope windows are open too unless it's blitz out there
(26-11-2012, 07:08 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: [ -> ]Ive never seen more than 90 even with the intercooler completely obstructing the rad and prolonged periods of full boost. Once It hits 90 the high. Speed fans kick in and the temp starts heading back to the low 80s region
That's good but wouldn't that be down to your turbo being way more bigger and efficient then ours?
yeah it would be that lol, i am amazed by how cold it does run actually, if you open the bonnet straight after a run all the boost pipes are ice cold and have condensation on so that intercooler is certainly doing its job, it soon warms up in traffic though, going to be installing a fan over ride just to be safe
if you had A/C the switch can be wired to work fans from inside. Pins 1+2 for Low speed and Pins 1+3 for High Speed
(26-11-2012, 09:59 PM)Kwik Wrote: [ -> ]if you had A/C the switch can be wired to work fans from inside. Pins 1+2 for Low speed and Pins 1+3 for High Speed
Its a non ac model, il figure something out though
