Right the pump is fitted all that but it the immobaliser side of things I'm struggling with when have the 12v live to the top of the stop soleinoid I have both green and red lights on my key pad and red light on steering wheel when I put my code in nothing happens the car won't start the injectors are getting desil I think it's deffo electrics I plugged the little black pump into my lucus on then turned on the ignition and my code worked and green light came on but still no joy can anyone help pleasee
If there is 12v to the stop solenoid then the immob won't do anything at all anyway so I would stop worrying about that............................
Have you bled all the way to the injectors by turning the car over with the unions loose at the injector end?
You need to do away with the imob completely.
There is a switched ignition like in the 4 pin plug, that needs to go directly onto the stop solonide on the bosch.
Its usualy the red wire.
Where would I find this red wire from ? On the plug that I've used wires from was the one the plugged straight into the lucus 4 pin black plug , from that said plug all there is , is a white a brown and two green ones I fear I've been using the wrong ones ?
Use a multimeter and find one that is live (+12v) when the ignition is switched on and stays live until you turn the ignition off again
Yeah I Used the multimeter and found the brown wire to be what I was looking for (the one you just described) , I was using wire from the 4 pin connector that connected to the lucus pump is this correct?
It really doesn't matter where it comes from, but yes the easiest one to get a supply from is the pump plug!
As long as you have 12v to the solenoid it will let fuel through providing its not broken but its pretty rare to be honest!
Cheers it's getting fuel through for sure , personally I think the pump is set too 'retarded' (as far forward as it'll go .
Should the immobaliser key pad have any lights on it at all?
If its fully forward then that is your problem, it wants to be 3/4 the other way ish and if your getting fuel it should be good to go
The lights on the immob will make no difference as if you have wired it to a switched live it will have no effect anymore.
I had a feeling it could be lol I'll give it all a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on Orr most likely be asking more questions lol cheers mate
No worries, I find 3/4 advanced is normally about spot on, see how you go and shout up if you have any trouble, i'm sure that me or someone will help out
Cheers , now I'm thinking about it I found that two wires from the plug had round about +12v or there abuts one was slightly less , would one be for the cold start solenoid and the other for the stop? The remaining two wires both green had 0v earths possibly?
one wire will be the cold start solenoid yeah, see if the other one is still live when the car is warm once you get it running, if its the cold start connection it will have 12v (ish) until the car gets warm and then switch off
Thank you very much beers on me if we ever meet lol
hehe, cheers for the thought, I don't drink though
Arrrr it'll have to be bacon then lol
Jackabeen93 Wrote:Arrrr it'll have to be bacon then lol
Or something a bit stronger knowing mark
Toxic-Jake Wrote:Jackabeen93 Wrote:Arrrr it'll have to be bacon then lol
Or something a bit stronger knowing mark
Pipe down you
Right there was 40mm of movement on the pump bracket from full retarded to fully advanced to I have moved it 10mm back from fully advanced which is obviously 3/4 of the distance from fully retarded correct yes? And there is fuel going through to the injectors so am I right in thinking the immobaliser is now redundant because the stop solenoid is open to allow fuel through? Think it's now possibly a case of bleeding her up , any idea how long this will take?
yeah that should do it, if you slacken off the 17mm union nut on the injector lines and get someone else to turn the key so the car turns over in short burts of 10-20 secs (so you don't kill the starter more than anything) and when you get fuel squirting out around the union nuts do them up tight as the fuel starts coming out (don't get it in you face, its a fair squirt
) and it should start to fire, once you get 2 done up it should just about run on its own
Success it's running idling fine try to rev it and it's really flat takes a long time to respond and doesn't rev as high as it should , puffs of white smoke from the exhaust . Do you think the pump position needs moving more if so which way? Or could it be because there is no forced induction turbos not feeding the inlet? Cheers
:dance:
sounds like its still running retarded, try adavancing it a bit more, does it sound really clattery at idle or is it really quiet? you did swap the bracket over as well didn't you? as the mounting studs are in a slightly different place on the bosch.........
Engine diagnostics via the internet FTW
Yeah we moved the studs round as directed in Darren's vid the bracket is identical just need to move the studs I'm going to try 5mm off of fully advanced
^^ just thought it was worth asking, I know that you can move them
yeah try it advancing it a bit more and report back, also, how does it sound, is it clattery or quiet at idle?
Well the last time we ran it before I out that last message it was realllllll clattery!!! The time before it sound not too bad , how should it sound ?
retard it a bit then and try that, try it somewhere in the middle and see how it runs, it should be somewhere between quiet and "freight train"
a little bit clattery is normal, a little is quite a lot when it comes to adjustment............
The clattering is advance clatter from it injecting the fuel a bit too soon, it won't do any harm and can help if you start tuning them but too much is bad for the engine
Well I had it rounding about right tbh but sill really flat I'll try sitti g it in the middle
It's in the middle and still running shit won't rev properly flat :/ it's gotta be the position on the pump on the bracket surely
nah if you moved the studs then put it just short of 3/4 advanced, if it was that far our then it most likely wouldn't start and if it did it would run like crap! you have the LDA (UFO shaped thing on top of pump) connected yeah? and what colour smoke is it?
Pull off the return pipe and check fuels coming out whilst its running..
Also try squeezing the primer bulb whilst trying to rev it and see what happens
Edit: Im not clever but i seen Darren do it when my pump was buggered