Guys,
I've looked through various guides on this site wrt head gasket changes. I'm now at the point where the inlet and exhaust manifoilds are removed, however at a loss on how to loosen off the timing belt.
I'm aware of the t/belt tensioner which is sited behind the lower plastic cover, however to remove the cover i need to remove the aux belt crank pulley and unfortunately I can't loosen the belt off due to the allen bolt arrowed in the picture <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/download/file.php?id=1003&mode=view" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">download/file.php?id=1003&mode=view</a><!-- l --> being jammed on.
Is there any other way to loosen/remove the timing belt so that the head can be lifted off?
If you cannot undo that bolt, you might have to try and remove the bottom crank pulley whilst the belt is still on, mind you - they're a nightmare to get off with no belt tight on them...
Try removing the alternator/PAS pump instead to try and get the belt off... Once that's off, you can then remove the lower aux pulley.
If all else fails - grind that bolt off...
Don't think you can go for the easy option of yanking off the timing belt cover, you do need them, or you'll destroy the timing belt.
You don't need to remove the bottle timing cover to get to the tensioner. There are holes in the cover to get your 13mm socket in.
As Ruan said about the alternator. Its on a pivot bolt at the bottom and a bracket/13mm bolt at the top. Remove the top bolt holding it to the bracket and loosen the big bottom bolt, then just pivot the alternator which will loosen the belt.
While you're down there though, its probably worth getting some stilsons or pipe grips on that rounded allen bolt and removing/replacing it.
why are you not doing the cambelt while your there? seems like a good idea to me :/
I dont understand why your trying to loosen that though? If your just trying to get the head off that belt setup dosent need to be touched. You can get to the tensioner without removing the bottom pulley cover. I know this is besides the point, and yes if you want to change the belt it will all need to come off... but just for removing the head so you can press on then none of that needs to come off...
As Dave said no need to remote anything aux belt / lower cover wise, just the 13mm nuts on the tensioner to be loosened, and stud to pull out... All easily done I find with a 1/4" wracket and deep 13mm socket.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfTnbjIJnCs
You can see the tensioner bolts im on about in my video above if you havent seen it ^
Cheers fellas,
I couldn't see how to get to the timing belt tensioner without removing the aux belt/lower cover.
I'll have another look shortly.
I only changed the timing belt and water pump in Oct 10 and the car has only done 3000 miles since then, if that.
Dave
I've been out and had a look. I can see the square hole and one bolt so far. Is it a case of holding the tension on the square drive, loosening the bolt and the releasing the belt tension?
I changed this belt in 2010 but can't remember all the specifics of the pensioners itself.
Yeh theres the square 3/8 drive hole that you use to hold the belt tensioner off.
Loosen the pivot point of the tensioner, and also the locking nut on the tensioner, then get the 3/8 drive to hold the tension off... slip belt off the cam
Darren,
just checked out your vid guide, tip top! Almost as good as my vid (
http://caseysousa.com/tutorial-animated-gif/)(bottom of page) on how to get your knee down on a 4 year olds bicycle one handed!!!
The belt should be off by close of play today!
Any specialist tools required to remove the head?
Cheers.
19:48 - belt off!
Head off on Sunday
I'm now at the stage where all the head bolts have been loosened off, lifting bracket and coolant bracket removed behind the fuel filter housing.
The head now moves slightly when a small amount of pressure is applied under the vacuum pump, however the sprocket end is still being held in place by a fixing that I can't see. I've removed the tensioner bolt from the slotted hole and one of the bolts securing the engine mount to the free end of the head/block.
Any ideas what I may have missed.
Worth noting is the earth strap mentioned in several head removal guides, I'm not sure I've found this as I don't remember removing it. Could anyone give me any clues as to where this may be so that I can verify it's removal.
There wasn't an earth strap on my xud i did last week.
I did remove the entire engine mounting though as its got a locator pin that goes into the head, so can't lift up without removing it. Needed a bit of encouragement with a copper mallet when all the bolts where out to get it off the head.
The pulley auto tensioner spring thing will go spadoiiing when you remove it, or if you remove the pulley.
I'm happy to remove the engine mount and I'm aware that the tensioner spring will make a break for freedom.
Can it be put back together in situ? My aux belt is still in place along with the lower timing belt cover.
there is a dowel in the mount that goes into the head, you have to totally remove the mount
Cheers Guys,
About to remove the mount now.
mark_airey Wrote:there is a dowel...
thats the word i was looking for!
Also maybe cover the top of the bottom cover to stop anything dropping in, like bolts n that or have a magnetic pen thing ready.
Although its not that much more effort to remove aux belt and bottom pulley...
It is when the locking allen bolt appears to have seized! The tensioning allen bolt is free but the other one is being a little stubborn! There's a pic of the allen bolt in question in my post in the projects section "getting the old gal back on the road"
And it's out and on the deck.
:clap: :dance: :clap:
Time to check the damage tomorrow.
ZX and Mark thanks for the last min advice. :clap: