Driveshaft Nut Torque?

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Driveshaft Nut Torque?
#1
Hi all,

Seeing as I'm told they're the same from the bulkhead forward, does anyone happen to know what the driveshaft nut on my 2001 Pug Partner should be torqued up to?
I have a funny feeling I read somewhere, something crazy like 225lb/ft.

Cheers in advance Wink
Will
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#2
"FT" last time i checked lol
Wishes for more power...
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#3
As in 3/4 'T' bar with bfo bar on the end tight?
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#4
Breaker bar job imo
But use it with skill!!
Wishes for more power...
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#5
Skill?!?! That's me f@cked then. lol
Does 225lb/ft sound right? I have got a 3/4 drive torque wrench.
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#6
I was going to say 220b/ft off the top of my head so 225 is probably right. I use a 1/2 torque wrench and like Piggy says, it has to be FT!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#7
It's 325NM.

That's about 240 lb.ft Smile

That's also equivalent to notgoingtofalloff.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#8
It's 360Nm on 306s I think?

I know my torque wrench doesn't quite cover it, I just tend to gun them FT instead, not had one fall off yet though. lol
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#9
Well, the hub/driveshaft nut is really FT now.
Only thing is, my front wheel is creaking when you rock the top of the wheel and there's a bit of top and bottom movement(wheel bearing style). All joints are new, so is the wheel bearing. The strut top bearing is fine and the pinch bolt at the bottom of the strut is tight and
the bearing was seated fully into the hub.
Both bearing races did come out when I was fitting the bearing into the hub, but it all went back together ok and was nice and smooth and free of any play when tested.
Think the best thing I can do is strip the hub off again and recheck the bearing, then if all appears ok, put it all back together and torque it up.
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#10
Sure it's that, not the P bush?
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#11
P bush on the o/s will need changing relatively soon I think, but I have found the problem.
The wheel nuts weren't tight enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I nipped them with my impact gun, then did them the rest of the way with my power bar, not too tight, but as tight as I would normally do up a steel wheel. I stuck the power bar on them tonight and dogged them up even tighter (again,not stupidly tight), but tighter than I would normally. Test drive = Noise gone.
The noise must have been the wheel centre flexing on the hub centre.
Embarrassed that it was something so simple, but also relieved that it was something so simple!
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#12
Good job you caught it in time
Seen some nasty instances where people haven't
[Image: av5ym8.jpg]
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#13
This is what a torque wrench is for... Tongue
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#14
Hub nut, Yes. Wheel nut/bolt, NAH!!!!! lol
Have always done them up tight enough that I can still get them off at the side of the road without the need for a power bar.
From now on, will carry said power bar in said vehicle, then I can do said wheel bolts up nice and FT!!! lol
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#15
FT wheel bolts eventually end up with sheared bolts or stripped threads lol.

They're torqued enough not to fall out but not so much you can't get them off with the crappy standard brace...
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#16
I say FT, but not literally. Just a bit tighter than I would normally do them.
It's gonna have a set of alloys sometime in the new year. May just be a set of 15" Speedlines as I have a set already, but would love a set of Nimrods. Just gotta keep checking in my local scrappy for his latest additions Wink
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