https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/ Wed, 06 May 2026 11:48:31 +0000 MyBB https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38092 Thu, 20 Oct 2022 09:52:09 +0100 johnny625]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38092
Now I can't seem to find any other used head from a turbo engine in my country...all I had found so far are from N/A engines. Can I put one from a N/A engine...everything is the same, valves, seats, camshaft, etc. I am just worried that N/A heads are somewhat weaker internally...]]>
Now I can't seem to find any other used head from a turbo engine in my country...all I had found so far are from N/A engines. Can I put one from a N/A engine...everything is the same, valves, seats, camshaft, etc. I am just worried that N/A heads are somewhat weaker internally...]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38085 Tue, 03 May 2022 18:42:35 +0100 ally406]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38085  Only other adjustment is a ground LDA, otherwise it's an unmolested pump. Anyone seen this before?]]>  Only other adjustment is a ground LDA, otherwise it's an unmolested pump. Anyone seen this before?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38080 Mon, 24 Jan 2022 21:36:25 +0000 dr_jekyll]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38080 Not sure if anyone's ever gonna see this but just after some advise.
Now starting my forged engine rebuild, replacing every bearing, ring and seal in sight but was wondering after all this what's the consensus on oil pumps?
Febi oil pumps and chains really aren't big money but should I replace for an aftermarket unit or stick with the oem pump and chain??]]> Not sure if anyone's ever gonna see this but just after some advise.
Now starting my forged engine rebuild, replacing every bearing, ring and seal in sight but was wondering after all this what's the consensus on oil pumps?
Febi oil pumps and chains really aren't big money but should I replace for an aftermarket unit or stick with the oem pump and chain??]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38075 Thu, 23 Dec 2021 22:44:03 +0000 ekjdm14]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=38075
On to what I was wanting to ask, are the preferred stud/nut sets (without spacers) still the XU10J4RS set sold by Pug1off?

If not, what has anyone else building a big-power/high boost XUD found to be the most reliable solution?  

The lad's been enjoying his Bianca XS-DT conversion (165k mile DHY "RODney you plonker" stock long block/T2/Top-mount/Lucas screwed-to-the-moon running about 22psi or 25/27psi at a push) but has also been missing the ridiculous acceleration of the XUD 206 (squareport D8A with 206 GTi180 flywheel/hydro clutch/gearbox, front mount/K14/Bosch 9mm etc) so has decided the solution is to DERV swap the Blaze Yellow Haynes XS as well.  

Before that happens though he's decided to spend some Xmas bonus cash on future-proofing that engine. I think this will entail-: 

• Replacing the stock rods/bearings with a set of DW10 ones we've had for an eternity, so while it's apart we may as well do some head work to open out the ports a little (hence new HG and best to replace the bolts with studs/nuts now and not after it lifts the head!)
  

• NA camshaft if we can find one cheap
  
• Homebrew port-matched exhaust manifold to accept 2256V (or TD04 possibly), maybe gearbox mount to keep heat off bulkhead/gear linkages
  
• 11mm pump with moar tighter gov-mod
  
• replace battered Xantia FMIC and homebrew hard lines with whatever will fit in the space with a cut bumper
  
• Possible WMI depending on EGT's
  

Not sure exactly what else, but as I'm opening the engine I've decided to go mental lol hence the question from this idiot]]>
On to what I was wanting to ask, are the preferred stud/nut sets (without spacers) still the XU10J4RS set sold by Pug1off?

If not, what has anyone else building a big-power/high boost XUD found to be the most reliable solution?  

The lad's been enjoying his Bianca XS-DT conversion (165k mile DHY "RODney you plonker" stock long block/T2/Top-mount/Lucas screwed-to-the-moon running about 22psi or 25/27psi at a push) but has also been missing the ridiculous acceleration of the XUD 206 (squareport D8A with 206 GTi180 flywheel/hydro clutch/gearbox, front mount/K14/Bosch 9mm etc) so has decided the solution is to DERV swap the Blaze Yellow Haynes XS as well.  

Before that happens though he's decided to spend some Xmas bonus cash on future-proofing that engine. I think this will entail-: 

• Replacing the stock rods/bearings with a set of DW10 ones we've had for an eternity, so while it's apart we may as well do some head work to open out the ports a little (hence new HG and best to replace the bolts with studs/nuts now and not after it lifts the head!)
  

• NA camshaft if we can find one cheap
  
• Homebrew port-matched exhaust manifold to accept 2256V (or TD04 possibly), maybe gearbox mount to keep heat off bulkhead/gear linkages
  
• 11mm pump with moar tighter gov-mod
  
• replace battered Xantia FMIC and homebrew hard lines with whatever will fit in the space with a cut bumper
  
• Possible WMI depending on EGT's
  

Not sure exactly what else, but as I'm opening the engine I've decided to go mental lol hence the question from this idiot]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37847 Wed, 04 Aug 2021 17:34:17 +0100 niciou]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37847 Hello everyone
Are there any veterans left among you?
I need a fair answer
I will put a gtb2262vklr on my zx td 1.9
I will surely have not far from 500 nm
which disc clutch + meca do you recommend?
I know that not many people release this couple on td]]> Hello everyone
Are there any veterans left among you?
I need a fair answer
I will put a gtb2262vklr on my zx td 1.9
I will surely have not far from 500 nm
which disc clutch + meca do you recommend?
I know that not many people release this couple on td]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37821 Fri, 25 Jun 2021 15:51:49 +0100 leswoollam]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37821
Many thanks.


LES

  DSCF1060.jpg (Size: 608.08 KB / Downloads: 148) ]]>
Many thanks.


LES

  DSCF1060.jpg (Size: 608.08 KB / Downloads: 148) ]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37820 Fri, 25 Jun 2021 15:51:40 +0100 leswoollam]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37820
Many thanks.


LES]]>
Many thanks.


LES]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37805 Fri, 21 May 2021 12:04:09 +0100 sprange67]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37805 Hi All,

Newbi and first post one here.

First I dont have a 309 but a camper (sorry   ) with as XUD9TE engine and this place seem where a lot of you guys know your stuff.

Basically I have black smoke, I know this means either too little air or too much fuel but I'm totally at a loss, see below:

So what I do know and have done

• Engine just fully serviced (low mileage 45K)
  
• All filters changed
  
• Valve clearances adjusted and in spec
  
• New cambelt (plus water pump and tensioners) and timing correct (double checked)
  
• A fully reconditioned Bosch Injection pump (by Diesel Bob) timing checked with dial gauge and spot on
  
• 4 reconditioned injectors from Diesel Bob (with new washers and heat shields).
  
• Plenty of turbo boost – checked with boost gauge – up to 18psi when giving it the full monty
  
• Does not touch any oil whatsoever, goes very well and does not heavily breath (through the dip stick) – So I have assumed the compression is fine, additionally the mileage is low, so I’m not looking at a compression test at the moment.
  
• 4 new heater plugs (I know that will have no issues with black smoke)
  
• New fuel pipe clips on all the fuel lines
  
• All new injector leak off pipes
  
• Clean gauss on fuel pickup pipe
  
• Induction air pipes all good, clips tight, no collapsing going on, which is reflected by boost
  

 
Issue
Unless the throttle is very lightly pressed it black smokes, which at night is excessive. Basically it will put down a blanket of smoke if booted.  I disconnected the boost pipe, but when revved (stationary), it will black smoke.  Because of this, I’ve assumed that its not the boost mechanism causing the smoke.  Also when flat out, full boost - no smoke
 
Makes no difference with the EGR enabled or disabled. The EGR valve has been replaced and is fully works (I have also tried blanking as a belts and braces approach).
 
I have disconnected the cold start advance solenoid, which helped.  So I assumed I got the timing wrong.  So have made incremental adjustments to the pumps retard/advance position. The best result was someone’s online suggestion to use a 6.5mm drill bit to set a starting point, maybe I moved to pump too far in my incremental steps?


My last thought is there is potentially a slightly clogged intercooler as the boost measurements are pre intercooler, but would have thought not

Any thoughts or suggestions (scrapping is not an option) dont care what it is, as I'm at the point of trying anything

Thanks in advance
Steve]]> Hi All,

Newbi and first post one here.

First I dont have a 309 but a camper (sorry   ) with as XUD9TE engine and this place seem where a lot of you guys know your stuff.

Basically I have black smoke, I know this means either too little air or too much fuel but I'm totally at a loss, see below:

So what I do know and have done

• Engine just fully serviced (low mileage 45K)
  
• All filters changed
  
• Valve clearances adjusted and in spec
  
• New cambelt (plus water pump and tensioners) and timing correct (double checked)
  
• A fully reconditioned Bosch Injection pump (by Diesel Bob) timing checked with dial gauge and spot on
  
• 4 reconditioned injectors from Diesel Bob (with new washers and heat shields).
  
• Plenty of turbo boost – checked with boost gauge – up to 18psi when giving it the full monty
  
• Does not touch any oil whatsoever, goes very well and does not heavily breath (through the dip stick) – So I have assumed the compression is fine, additionally the mileage is low, so I’m not looking at a compression test at the moment.
  
• 4 new heater plugs (I know that will have no issues with black smoke)
  
• New fuel pipe clips on all the fuel lines
  
• All new injector leak off pipes
  
• Clean gauss on fuel pickup pipe
  
• Induction air pipes all good, clips tight, no collapsing going on, which is reflected by boost
  

 
Issue
Unless the throttle is very lightly pressed it black smokes, which at night is excessive. Basically it will put down a blanket of smoke if booted.  I disconnected the boost pipe, but when revved (stationary), it will black smoke.  Because of this, I’ve assumed that its not the boost mechanism causing the smoke.  Also when flat out, full boost - no smoke
 
Makes no difference with the EGR enabled or disabled. The EGR valve has been replaced and is fully works (I have also tried blanking as a belts and braces approach).
 
I have disconnected the cold start advance solenoid, which helped.  So I assumed I got the timing wrong.  So have made incremental adjustments to the pumps retard/advance position. The best result was someone’s online suggestion to use a 6.5mm drill bit to set a starting point, maybe I moved to pump too far in my incremental steps?


My last thought is there is potentially a slightly clogged intercooler as the boost measurements are pre intercooler, but would have thought not

Any thoughts or suggestions (scrapping is not an option) dont care what it is, as I'm at the point of trying anything

Thanks in advance
Steve]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37764 Tue, 30 Mar 2021 22:43:03 +0100 Hpe900]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37764
Today I have discovered an issue with my 306 1.9 LX. I came back from worked turned my car off and first the car remained started when the keys were not in the ignition. I then had to stall to have the car off.

Secondly once the car was off my fan was still running which I assumed it was down to it cooling the car down. I comeback to the car 2 hours later to find the fan still running and battery drained.

Any ideas or suggestions what this could be please?

Thank you]]>
Today I have discovered an issue with my 306 1.9 LX. I came back from worked turned my car off and first the car remained started when the keys were not in the ignition. I then had to stall to have the car off.

Secondly once the car was off my fan was still running which I assumed it was down to it cooling the car down. I comeback to the car 2 hours later to find the fan still running and battery drained.

Any ideas or suggestions what this could be please?

Thank you]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37743 Thu, 11 Feb 2021 01:14:33 +0000 jcsh]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37743 My trusty Xud 306 clutch is getting super heavy and all points to the need for a new cable.
I want to order from someone trustworthy in uk,
Is there anyone on here these days that will send it out to me, or perhaps a mate who is perhaps coming out in a weeks time?
Do I need a vin number or are they all the same?
Cheers
James]]> My trusty Xud 306 clutch is getting super heavy and all points to the need for a new cable.
I want to order from someone trustworthy in uk,
Is there anyone on here these days that will send it out to me, or perhaps a mate who is perhaps coming out in a weeks time?
Do I need a vin number or are they all the same?
Cheers
James]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37683 Wed, 28 Oct 2020 13:22:05 +0000 leswoollam]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37683 https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37680 Mon, 26 Oct 2020 10:29:15 +0000 johnny625]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37680
However no matter how I rotate the lda pin I just can seem to find enough range of on-off boost fueling. If it has enough fuel on boost, it blows smoke off boost and in  a weird way somehow bogs down the car low down, slowing spool up (which on the k03 should be pretty much instant).


If I set the lda pin on a less aggressive slope it spools up faster, though feels a bit lean when on boost. 

Pretty much every position of the star wheel has been tried with little change, currently sitting about 7 turns from the bottom up.


Now is lda pin grind even worth it with k03? I understand they are very small turbos and they cant take much psi wise.]]>
However no matter how I rotate the lda pin I just can seem to find enough range of on-off boost fueling. If it has enough fuel on boost, it blows smoke off boost and in  a weird way somehow bogs down the car low down, slowing spool up (which on the k03 should be pretty much instant).


If I set the lda pin on a less aggressive slope it spools up faster, though feels a bit lean when on boost. 

Pretty much every position of the star wheel has been tried with little change, currently sitting about 7 turns from the bottom up.


Now is lda pin grind even worth it with k03? I understand they are very small turbos and they cant take much psi wise.]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37644 Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:03:15 +0100 dt_]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37644
Basically, the first quarter of the throttle travel does nothing.  I have adjusted the cable to take up this slack, so the pedal is responsive, but as a result I can only get 3/4 throttle, and the throttle arm does not reach its rest, its suspended 'open' on the cable.  Is this a common problem with these pumps?  Never had any trouble with the one on my zx (bosch, turbo) 

If so, is it a case of removing the throttle arm, rotating it back, and then refitting, or is this compensating for some kind of internal wear? With it being a nad estate car, I could use that extra quarter throttle!

And help or advice appreciated]]>
Basically, the first quarter of the throttle travel does nothing.  I have adjusted the cable to take up this slack, so the pedal is responsive, but as a result I can only get 3/4 throttle, and the throttle arm does not reach its rest, its suspended 'open' on the cable.  Is this a common problem with these pumps?  Never had any trouble with the one on my zx (bosch, turbo) 

If so, is it a case of removing the throttle arm, rotating it back, and then refitting, or is this compensating for some kind of internal wear? With it being a nad estate car, I could use that extra quarter throttle!

And help or advice appreciated]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37621 Thu, 23 Jul 2020 13:57:10 +0100 ekjdm14]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37621  I'll post the latest update on this project here!

To bring folks up to speed seeing as the original thread is now probably lost, in March this year we picked up a 2003 Pug 206 1.1S as a non-runner with the intention of swapping in a tuned 1.9TD.  The car arrived and was missing it's BSM (underbonnet fuse box). Threw one in and it fired up and ran/drove beautifully, bonus nachos, we sold the original engine/box for £50 to a guy who exports stuff to West Africa.

That funded the purchase of an "unknown" D8A on a K14 that'd been sat in a shed for years and was full of cobwebs. Test fire of that proved it sound except for a gummed up pump so the next thing was a gearbox.  Initially we found a DW10 out of a 406 with it's 'box for £30 locally, and were planning to use that but then fate took over and we spotted a high mileage 206 GTi with a blown HG and rust issues, £300 and it actually drove OK and had been cared for by the last owner, had a good interior/lowered beam/coilovers and best of all GTi180 alloys with brand new Rainsport 3's all round! Oh, and a spoiler from France that we've not seen before. 

Bargain, and I took the decision at that point to go with the GTi gearbox, as the ratios would suit our intended use of back road bruiser better than the high-ratio one from the 406 (plus the 406 would've meant faffing with cable shift/pull clutch and DMF). Another bonus when I pulled the 'box, the clutch kit was brand spanking! So that was the drivetrain sorted.

Next issue was making an engine never intended for a 206, fit, in a 206... The GTi gearbox mount is the only standard item now, top engine mount is scratch built from 1/2" steel bar & lower mount is Xantia TD but brought down and out some on adaptor plates to align the driveshaft bearing, coupled to the crossmember by a modified 206 dogbone.  Then wiring, stripping out redundant crap from the petrol loom & connecting the few sensors left & adding a glow plug relay.  Cooling and induction system are largely Xantia TD shoehorned into a hacked up 206 fan shroud/slam panel, still have to add a cooling fan behind the rad as no room for the stock one.  FMIC just about fits between the front chassis legs with a little trimming.  Some creativity needed for the header tank, it's now a GTi item relocated in the vent/plenum area behind the strut tower.

Probably forgotten more than I've remembered at this point, but the car made it's maiden voyage on Tuesday. 20 minutes later it was sat in a puddle of 80W/90 and had to be towed home    I forgot to put the hockey sticks in the intermediate bearing! Least it was nothing major, a bit of swearing and sweating later and Wednesday saw a better run and the first real pulls to see how she's faring.

Boost gauge and EGT not working as chinese rubbish, but tuning by eye/ear we have a nice idle with a slight lope to it, not too much smoke off-boost and seat-of-pants I'm saying it's over 160bhp peak.  We do have a dyno local to us so may discuss a run or two when it's been shaken down some more & has a cooling fan/gauges working.  Anyway, have to go out now but may well be back here if 206info is indeed lost for ever ahaha.  (Thanks due to members here and previous threads for helping me work out the pump issues we initially had, sticky vanes FTL!)]]>  I'll post the latest update on this project here!

To bring folks up to speed seeing as the original thread is now probably lost, in March this year we picked up a 2003 Pug 206 1.1S as a non-runner with the intention of swapping in a tuned 1.9TD.  The car arrived and was missing it's BSM (underbonnet fuse box). Threw one in and it fired up and ran/drove beautifully, bonus nachos, we sold the original engine/box for £50 to a guy who exports stuff to West Africa.

That funded the purchase of an "unknown" D8A on a K14 that'd been sat in a shed for years and was full of cobwebs. Test fire of that proved it sound except for a gummed up pump so the next thing was a gearbox.  Initially we found a DW10 out of a 406 with it's 'box for £30 locally, and were planning to use that but then fate took over and we spotted a high mileage 206 GTi with a blown HG and rust issues, £300 and it actually drove OK and had been cared for by the last owner, had a good interior/lowered beam/coilovers and best of all GTi180 alloys with brand new Rainsport 3's all round! Oh, and a spoiler from France that we've not seen before. 

Bargain, and I took the decision at that point to go with the GTi gearbox, as the ratios would suit our intended use of back road bruiser better than the high-ratio one from the 406 (plus the 406 would've meant faffing with cable shift/pull clutch and DMF). Another bonus when I pulled the 'box, the clutch kit was brand spanking! So that was the drivetrain sorted.

Next issue was making an engine never intended for a 206, fit, in a 206... The GTi gearbox mount is the only standard item now, top engine mount is scratch built from 1/2" steel bar & lower mount is Xantia TD but brought down and out some on adaptor plates to align the driveshaft bearing, coupled to the crossmember by a modified 206 dogbone.  Then wiring, stripping out redundant crap from the petrol loom & connecting the few sensors left & adding a glow plug relay.  Cooling and induction system are largely Xantia TD shoehorned into a hacked up 206 fan shroud/slam panel, still have to add a cooling fan behind the rad as no room for the stock one.  FMIC just about fits between the front chassis legs with a little trimming.  Some creativity needed for the header tank, it's now a GTi item relocated in the vent/plenum area behind the strut tower.

Probably forgotten more than I've remembered at this point, but the car made it's maiden voyage on Tuesday. 20 minutes later it was sat in a puddle of 80W/90 and had to be towed home    I forgot to put the hockey sticks in the intermediate bearing! Least it was nothing major, a bit of swearing and sweating later and Wednesday saw a better run and the first real pulls to see how she's faring.

Boost gauge and EGT not working as chinese rubbish, but tuning by eye/ear we have a nice idle with a slight lope to it, not too much smoke off-boost and seat-of-pants I'm saying it's over 160bhp peak.  We do have a dyno local to us so may discuss a run or two when it's been shaken down some more & has a cooling fan/gauges working.  Anyway, have to go out now but may well be back here if 206info is indeed lost for ever ahaha.  (Thanks due to members here and previous threads for helping me work out the pump issues we initially had, sticky vanes FTL!)]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37586 Tue, 09 Jun 2020 19:01:24 +0100 johnny625]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37586

I have a known working bosch and the injector lines as well. Now I know its different from the Lucas one. 


A description of the firing order on the Bosch would be much appreciated.]]>

I have a known working bosch and the injector lines as well. Now I know its different from the Lucas one. 


A description of the firing order on the Bosch would be much appreciated.]]>