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Coolant Temp Sensor from 307 (?) to 306
#1
[attachment=31868][attachment=31867][attachment=31867][attachment=31868][attachment=31867]Hello, The 2 wires that should connect to the coolant temp sensor in the top LHS of the radiator (looking fwd) on my 306, registration N95GOY have no femail plug on them. If the wires are twisted together the fans run. I assumed that the reason the previous owner had removed the female plug and was twisting the wires was because the sensor was dud.  It does at least work but means opening the bonnet for every drive. 
I have therefore acquired from a scrapyard an identical looking coolant temp sensor and female plug. The newly acquired sensor however has three terminal/three wires not two. It was from a different peugot model, (possibly 307) and I'd assumed as it looked the same it'd be the same. 
Now at home and wondering if I should just fit the sensor and connect the two fan wires to two of the three terminals on the new coolant temp sensor. The two fan wires on the car are heavy duty red and yellow. The three wires on the female connector to the new sensor are lighter gauge, solid green, green with white flecks, and yellow.  Confused
Grateful for advice.
25 Jan 15:31


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Bluetractorman


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#2
Checked DVLA to see what model 306 you have & N95 GOY comes up as a 1600cc Ford that hasn't been taxed or MOT'd since 2010!
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#3
(25-01-2019, 11:37 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: Checked DVLA to see what model 306 you have & N95 GOY comes up as a 1600cc Ford that hasn't been taxed or MOT'd since 2010!

Thanks very much Mighty306 for taking the time.  My apologies, I missed a digit N295GOY.    You'll find it now. 1360cc petrol, Feb 96.
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#4
The size of the wires that should connect to the thermostatic switch in the radiator suggest a high amperage circuit.  The parts you've stripped from the 307 don't look like they could take a high amp load.

I'd suggest you get yourself an OEM 2-pin part (Peugeot number 1264.40) like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Bilstein...rk:15:pf:0

How you connect the bare wires to this is the issue.  Ideally you want a genuine 2-pin connector.  Someone on here may be able to get you one as there are some people currently breaking cars.  The plug from pretty much any non-AC model of 306 should be suitable.  Otherwise it's a trip to a breakers...

I assume you currently have a blanking plug in the radiator where the switch should screw in?
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#5
Agreed re the amperage. Our trip to the breakers wasnt as successful as I thought at the time. The breakers didn't have any 306's.
Currently there's a two pin coolant temp sensor in the the radiator. I did think that the reason the previous owner may removed the two pin female connector may have been that the sensor wasn't working and by twisting the wires together it at least gets the fans going. Albeit constantly.
If I can get a two pin female connector that'd be great. At least I can try that before buying a new sensor. Anyone got a two pin female connector? Looks like the connector at the top of this post but with just two pins...
Thanks again M306.
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#6
(26-01-2019, 05:32 PM)Bluetractorman Wrote: Currently there's a two pin coolant temp sensor in the the radiator.

Ah, I see.  If you've got a multimeter (with a continuity setting) you could test it.  Providing the temp gauge on the car dash is reasonably accurate it should switch on at 97 degrees C.
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#7
(26-01-2019, 06:22 PM)Mighty306 Wrote:
(26-01-2019, 05:32 PM)Bluetractorman Wrote: Currently there's a two pin coolant temp sensor in the the radiator.

Ah, I see.  If you've got a multimeter (with a continuity setting) you could test it.  Providing the temp gauge on the car dash is reasonably accurate it should switch on at 97 degrees C.

Thanks, yes I can do that continuity test no prob.  The temp gauge which must be connected to a different sensor (obviously) is working.  Will report back.  Thanks again.

Thanks, yes I can do that continuity test no prob. The temp gauge which must be connected to a different sensor (obviously) is working. Will report back. Thanks again.
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