How long to -

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How long to -
#1
Hey guys, 

Roughly how long should it take to 

1 - replace both front wishbones, 
2 - replace both front track rod ends,
3 - replace both front wheel bearings. 

i have new wishbones and new ball joints on their way to me now, but need a rough estimate as to how long it should take to do all of the above. 

I have a basic tool kit, and know the biggest problem i will have is undoing the centre nuts as my alloys do not have a centre cap. The only thing i can think of doing is putting on the spare to allow me to have access while cracking it off. 

Is there anything i should do while i'm doing all this? like replace this seal, or replace this bush? 
Bearing in mind we do believe this car to be tired :Smile


dont suppose poodle or jonny would like to help a local cabby owner out some time soon, (when its dry ish Blush  )
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#2
It 'shouldn't' take long... But when you add in rusty nuts, spinning BJs and broken captive nuts will probably take longer. Confused

Wheel bearings will need pressed in by a local garage unless you have a press. Tracking will also need doing after changing TREs, no matter how carefully you try and measure the threads lol.
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#3
Like Tom says "shouldn't" take long, the front hub nuts can sometimes be a twat, you fo have a 35mm socket don't you?
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#4
(06-11-2015, 10:42 PM)insomaniac45 Wrote: The only thing i can think of doing is putting on the spare to allow me to have access while cracking it off. 

I did that. Even with alloys with centre caps, there's not enough room for the socket to fit.
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#5
Wishbones I did in 20 mins either side. Track rods took type about half hour as it was all rusty. Never done bearings
[Image: 20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-734...391753.jpg]
TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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#6
Realistically be a couple of hours, excluding time for a trip to get the bearings changed. Let me know when you want to do it and i'll bring the electric gun over and we can change the bearings at work.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#7
i think i may have a 32mm socket, i remember buying a socket for when i did the bearings on my old truck. Will have to check that one Smile

thanks for all your inputs,


@poodle, i will definitely let you know bud, and that would be a massive help.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#8
32mm isn't going to work overly well. Tongue 35 or 36mm needed, though if Poodles lending a hand I'm sure he'll have one. Smile
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#9
The circlips behind the bearings can be a pain.
2001 BMW 330Ci
2012 VW High Up
1988 205 GTi 1.6
1990 205 Mi16
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#10
^ yup
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#11
i should have some circlip pliers, inc some 90 degree ones, so it should not be too difficult. i have new axle nuts, so i will take one of them to the shed to see if i have a socket that fits, failing that, halfrauds is not that far from me Smile
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#12
Axle nuts?? The rear hub nuts are 32mm and are kind of one use only, the front ones are 35mm, reusable and have a split pin Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#13
as already said
you wont do the bearings unless you have a press!
the bearing circlips Will be a bitch! even with the correct tools
track rod ends may not even budge without heat!

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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#14
Use a sharp pick to scrape out the crap all the way around the edge of the circlip and give a spray of wd40 or similar. Then use a small punch in the eyes of the clip to drive it towards the gap, you'll see it start to bounce once it's free. Once that's done on both sides the circlip pliers will lift it out fairly easily.

I have some 36mm sockets for the hub nut and good stilsons for the track rods, not a problem. Wink
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#15
Then use a small punch in the eyes of the clip to drive it towards the gap, you'll see it start to bounce once it's free.

I second that....simply put as well.

just don't break the eyes off......! gently as you go.
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