Auto tensioner

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Auto tensioner
#1
Just fitted a new auto tensioner to my hdi quick question...
Heres a picture of the old one when releasing the auto tensioner which line should line up with the one at the back ive took the slack with the manual tensioner first [attachment=22469]
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#2
They shouldn't line up when released, those holes are just for locking it off.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#3
I was refering to the two lines above(one above left hole and one to the left) which normally relate to belt wear.

(01-04-2015, 03:17 PM)shervo Wrote: I was refering to the two lines above(one above left hole and one to the left) which normally relate to belt wear.
All sorted now anyway just had some minor confusion for a moment.
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#4
My pleasure Wink
Wishes for more power...
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#5
(01-04-2015, 03:23 PM)Piggy Wrote: My pleasure Wink
Yeah thanks goes out to piggy for quick response and good info as always.
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#6
If one of you wouldn't mind posting whatever the supersecret answer is, i'm sure current and future forum users would appreciate it.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#7
As said its supersecret Wink haha

Joking, well I had an annoying noise which wasnt a squeel more of a rattle, had already fitted a solid crank pulley and a new auto tensioner but the noise still seemed the same. The auto tensioner should sit in between the two lines furthest right for a new belt and left for a worn belt. Sorted my noise by pinning the tensioner back then tightening the manual tensioner more. Which then made the auto tensioner sit just past the right line, which would suggest its to tight but the noise has gone.
Picture for reference of were my auto tensioner now sits (demonstrated on old tensioner)
[attachment=22470]
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#8
Hahahah i see, thanks.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#9
well bugger me....I looked as this thread and pics this morning and was wondering wtf the blue metal part of the engine was....really scratching my head......doh its a bloody vice aint it"!!!!!!!!BlushBlush

ios the engione in the car at the mo and how easy was it to remove the auto tensioner with the engine in situ please......I have the joy of the crank pulley bolt to come very soon........
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#10
(02-04-2015, 01:43 PM)pug306driver Wrote: well bugger me....I looked as this thread and pics this morning and was wondering wtf the blue metal part of the engine was....really scratching my head......doh its a bloody vice aint it"!!!!!!!!BlushBlush

ios the engione in the car at the mo and how easy was it to remove the auto tensioner with the engine in situ please......I have the joy of the crank pulley bolt to come very soon........
Yeah its a vice haha. Engine in the car and its really a simple job but I have the luxury of a ramp and air tools. But still simple with hand tools. Basic info;
Remove o/s wheel and guard
Undo manual tensioner to slacken belt then use 15mm spanner to push auto tensioner back and remove belt
Support engine with jack and wood
Remove top engine mount
Lower engine down
You can now access the tensioner with a ratchet and 8mm allen socket through wheel arch
Obviously undo crank pulley before all this if you're doing it at the same time.

I may of missed a few things but thats the basics to the job.
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#11
(02-04-2015, 03:13 PM)shervo Wrote:
(02-04-2015, 01:43 PM)pug306driver Wrote: well bugger me....I looked as this thread and pics this morning and was wondering wtf the blue metal part of the engine was....really scratching my head......doh its a bloody vice aint it"!!!!!!!!BlushBlush

ios the engione in the car at the mo and how easy was it to remove the auto tensioner with the engine in situ please......I have the joy of the crank pulley bolt to come very soon........
Yeah its a vice haha. Engine in the car and its really a simple job but I have the luxury of a ramp and air tools. But still simple with hand tools. Basic info;
Remove o/s wheel and guard
Undo manual tensioner to slacken belt then use 15mm spanner to push auto tensioner back and remove belt
Support engine with jack and wood
Remove top engine mount
Lower engine down
You can now access the tensioner with a ratchet and 8mm allen socket through wheel arch
Obviously undo crank pulley before all this if you're doing it at the same time.

I may of missed a few things but thats the basics to the job.

As above but it can be done with out removing the top engine mount and lowering the engine, not much room but it can be done.
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#12
Yeah it can be done if you've got a small allen key. But as said I've got the luxury of a ramp and air tools so two minutes of removing the top mount probably saved me 5 of messing about with no space haha.
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#13
Yeah I've never removed the top engine mount to change them either lol.
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#14
Thanks for the info dudes brilliant forum!
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#15
(07-04-2015, 09:26 AM)pug306driver Wrote: Thanks for the info dudes brilliant forum!

As the lads have said, it can be done without removing top mount, just lots of jiggling Allen key and scraping knuckles...the joys of no room haha...

Oh, hijack alert! Lol sorry:

Where can I get a new crankshaft pulley bolt? Anyone on here do the parts? I gotta get my posts up before I can see myself :/
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#16
From Pug

0516 A4 is the bolt and the washers is 0516 A6
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