T2 wastegate

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T2 wastegate
#1
Is there much force needed to keep the wategate closed on a t2 iv blanked the actuator pipe so with wastegate needing to be closed will wire work or does it need welded??
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#2
Just put a mbc on it, no need to weld it up on a standard turbo, need to sort the gasket out first lol might help with the lack of boost
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#3
Iv fited a new gasket boosting around 16?
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#4
Ahh right you've sorted it now then? Either just adjust the waste gate or get a mbc. Easy to do on a t2 you don't even need to jack the car up
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#5
Yea i cut the pipe and put a screw in and tryed to shut waste gate as much as i can
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#6
(28-05-2014, 07:48 PM)pbell283 Wrote: Yea i cut the pipe and put a screw in and tryed to shut waste gate as much as i can

Sorry mate but I don't get what you mean? Do you mean a proper screw? If so take it out, put a t piece in and put the mbc onto that?
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#7
Ok il do that how do i keep wast gate shut ?
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#8
(28-05-2014, 08:38 PM)pbell283 Wrote: Ok il do that how do i keep wast gate shut ?

Why do you want to? You set the mbc to limit boost to 25 psi or what ever you want to.
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#9
So i dont need to touch the wast gate on th manafold
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#10
(28-05-2014, 09:59 PM)pbell283 Wrote: So i dont need to touch the wast gate on th manafold

Erm...are you by any chance getting the EGR system and the wastgate confused?
Wishes for more power...
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#11
Right sorry the part the arm end sits onto with we clip do i need to weld that shut ?
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#12
If you want to 'weld the wastegaste' then yes, put the wastegate in the closed position and tack weld the arm in place. This isn't efficient though.
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#13
(29-05-2014, 08:20 AM)mr_fish Wrote: If you want to 'weld the wastegaste' then yes, put the wastegate in the closed position and tack weld the arm in place. This isn't efficient though.

Much like the boost can method? ninja *Runs and hides*
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#14
Also does all t2's kick in at like 3000rpm ?
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#15
(29-05-2014, 09:46 AM)pbell283 Wrote: Also does all t2's kick in at like 3000rpm ?

you'll start hitting peek boost around there, should kick in a bit over 2k iirc though . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#16
I dont feel boost to near 3 tbh sucks Sad im looking torque just
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#17
Why does the car nt sound as loud with the t2 ? Doesnt seem as raspy im running full straight through
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#18
the T2 is a good dampener of sound.,..

if you want loud, take the turbo off.. itll sound like a tractor but itll wake the neighbours up nicely
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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#19
Ahh ok so i cant make it louder
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#20
Your turbo should kick in over 2k or just below 2.5k

i also have a qyestion. I attempted to screw the wastegate on my t2 but when i go to adjust the 10mm nut on the arm the whole wastegate arm itself turns. Ive tryed clamping the arm and turning the nut but it just wont come free.
Any ideas ?
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#21
(06-06-2014, 09:22 AM)Owen_G_ Wrote: Your turbo should kick in over 2k or just below 2.5k

i also have a qyestion. I attempted to screw the wastegate on my t2 but when i go to adjust the 10mm nut on the arm the whole wastegate arm itself turns. Ive tryed clamping the arm and turning the nut but it just wont come free.
Any ideas ?

#
time and patience is what is required here, too much of the old elbow grease and you risk damaging the actuator if you pull it too hard etc.
get a small wire brush and give it a scrub first
if its seized get some plusgas, when its cold, apply and leave, apply and leave etc, then try carefully to move it

you can also get that freeze lock stuff, which will hopefully thermal shock it into being free.
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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