rear beam mounts

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rear beam mounts
#1
Where can I get standard rear beam mounts?
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#2
ebay/pug
00' 106 Indy - Moonstone - Sold
97' 106 XT 1.6 - Mayerling Green - Swapped
95' 306 P1 DT - Onyx - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Silver - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Onyx - SORN awaiting scrap
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#3
Any motor factors should do them. What ever you do don't get cheap 1s off ebay. I had some and they last about 2 days before they fell apart
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#4
Moved to correct section
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#5
my motor factors ones lasted 10miles.

my ebay ones have lasted over a year.

there needs to be some decent polybushed ones so its not a game of luck or solids!
Wishes for more power...
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#6
(01-10-2013, 07:37 PM)Scott Wrote: Moved to correct section

Cheers scott! havent been on the forum in a while lol

Could someone put up some links please because I cant find any! Thanks

dw found some

(01-10-2013, 07:38 PM)Piggy Wrote: my motor factors ones lasted 10miles.

my ebay ones have lasted over a year.

there needs to be some decent polybushed ones so its not a game of luck or solids!

WHich ebay ones did you get piggy?
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#7
(01-10-2013, 07:38 PM)Piggy Wrote: my motor factors ones lasted 10miles.

my ebay ones have lasted over a year.

there needs to be some decent polybushed ones so its not a game of luck or solids!

I guess it depends which 1s you get. Just avoid cheap 1s full stop. I got some decent 1s from GSF and haven't had any problems. At the end of the day it isn't really a job you want to end up doing twice!
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#8
I have a set of baker solids!! Never been on a car £110 posted
[Image: SDC10442-1.jpg]
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#9
if your going solid just weld up the old ones job done, BTW if anyone as some old knackered ones going spare I'm exploring the possibility of filling some with poly resin this should create a halfway house between solid and flimsy std, so if anyone as some going spare let me know.
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#10
Can't get good enough adhesion without stripping them back to bare steel, drilling the studs to seperate the two halves and having them sandblasted and the surface primed, tried it before.
Then you need 2 jigs to keep them lined up whilst it sets, some way of keeping some compression on the resin, etc. Bit of a pain in the arse, easier just to make them solid.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
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#11
(09-10-2013, 04:06 PM)Rippthrough Wrote: Can't get good enough adhesion without stripping them back to bare steel, drilling the studs to seperate the two halves and having them sandblasted and the surface primed, tried it before.
Then you need 2 jigs to keep them lined up whilst it sets, some way of keeping some compression on the resin, etc. Bit of a pain in the arse, easier just to make them solid.

Your right the condition of used mounts is a issue, I know when I took mine off they were in such a sorry state I didn't even bother trying I `simply welded them up but I now have access to a cleaning tank, now sure what's in it but it nasty stuff (a mate does powder coating and the tank cleans off old rust, dirt , paint etc infact it seems to remove anything that isn't metal ) although not sure about rubber, anyway I'm pretty sure this would leave a decent surface for the resin to bond to, in my experience the resin is sticky stuff and seems to stick to anything you don't want it to when I made some bushes a few years ago it was sticking to the moulds despite a liberal coatings of various release agents PVA, wax, etc, I think it would be worth a try I have various resins around 95 A shore all I need is a mount
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#12
I've got some solids at a price?
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