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+--- Thread: Lower ball joints (/showthread.php?tid=28640)
Lower ball joints - jfb - 08-01-2015
Hi!
Real noob question here (again)! How difficult would it be to do my lower ball joints myself ? Looks like just three bolts and the ball shaft. Haynes says it's a three spanner thing, but not sure what that really means! Would I have to take it to garage to have tracking done after?
I think it's causing an annoying clink and would like to sort it, but one garage quoted £152 to change them, could do without that!
Thanks!
James
RE: Lower ball joints - Toms306 - 08-01-2015
That £152 will include tracking I'd guess. Tracking should be at least checked after changing the ball joints.
They're not difficult to do in that it is only 4 bolts, you have the 3 on the wishbone*, and then a pinch bolt on the shaft. The difficult part is removing the shaft from the hub, requires muscle, crowbars and hammers and usually ends in shouting or grazed knuckles lol.
*aftermarket wishbones have the ball joint riveted on so you cant really change those
Lower BJs don't usually clink though, they can knock or squeak in my experience, are you sure its that at fault?
Lower ball joints - jfb - 08-01-2015
I meant knock or clonk (autocorrect) . Knocks/clunks when going over rough road etc
RE: Lower ball joints - Paul_13 - 08-01-2015
Maybe your strut bearing has gone and the clink is the spring clicking round
RE: Lower ball joints - Toms306 - 08-01-2015
Ah ok, its possible then. Drop links are a common fail on these and cause annoying knocks, I would check them before changing the BJ.
Lower ball joints - jfb - 08-01-2015
For the mot the strut bearings were done!
Drop links also done for mot!
About a month ago!
Lower ball joints - jfb - 08-01-2015
So I think that only leaves bj?
RE: Lower ball joints - Ollie - 09-01-2015
Only thing to go it get it jacked up, wheel off and start pulling on stuff. You'll soon find out what has play in it.
No point guessing over the internet.
No harm.
RE: Lower ball joints - ConorTRG - 09-01-2015
What ollie said, also 152 for replacing balljoints is a rip off.
RE: Lower ball joints - Toms306 - 09-01-2015
BJs - £50
1hr Labour - £50
Tracking - £50
Doesn't seem a rip off to me....but maybe I'm just used to local garages that don't have to compete!
If the BJ is loose enough to knock you should feel it by moving the around as above, could also be track rod end.
RE: Lower ball joints - nominous - 09-01-2015
(08-01-2015, 07:01 PM)Toms306 Wrote: The difficult part is removing the shaft from the hub, requires muscle, crowbars and hammers and usually ends in shouting or grazed knuckles lol.
Found that to be a swine with my typical methods, then read on hear an idea which worked first time and did both in 30 seconds.
Use a long pole (big jack handle here) stick under the chassis, on top of the lower arm, apply pressure at the end downwards.
Give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth.
RE: Lower ball joints - Paul_13 - 09-01-2015
Always push on the bottom of the brake disc when pulling on the wishbone if you're removing the ball joint. Makes life much easier
RE: Lower ball joints - Toms306 - 09-01-2015
(09-01-2015, 10:07 AM)nominous Wrote:(08-01-2015, 07:01 PM)Toms306 Wrote: The difficult part is removing the shaft from the hub, requires muscle, crowbars and hammers and usually ends in shouting or grazed knuckles lol.
Found that to be a swine with my typical methods, then read on hear an idea which worked first time and did both in 30 seconds.
Use a long pole (big jack handle here) stick under the chassis, on top of the lower arm, apply pressure at the end downwards.
Give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth.
Don't suppose you've got a pic of that? I'm struggling to work it out in my head! I hate popping the BJ out of the hub and need to do a CV boot son lol.
RE: Lower ball joints - tigerstyle - 09-01-2015
http://www.teng.co.uk/suspension-arm-lever.html#.VK_NySusV-4
RE: Lower ball joints - daveylennon93 - 09-01-2015
Turn the wheel fully out, put a pry bar into the slit on the hub where the bj sits in, seperate it a bit and pull the bj down, works every time for me.
RE: Lower ball joints - nominous - 09-01-2015
(09-01-2015, 10:53 AM)Toms306 Wrote: ou've got a pic of that? I'm struggling to work it out in my head! I hate popping the BJ out of the hub and need to do a CV boot son lol.
Pretty much like the sealy pic posted, except as it's just a bar, inserting from the front bumper, over the top of the arm then under what would be the footwell.
Lever down.
Helps to twat on the hub and BJ a little first with a "tuning tool" to loosen them up.
I now have the problem of closing the gap up on the hub hole after opening it to free which typically does work but didn't.
It was bowl me over with a feather easy doing it with the pole. I was studded as it was budging pushing down on the arm or jacking the hub off it.
RE: Lower ball joints - Toms306 - 09-01-2015
Ah I see, misread it first time.
Can't believe I haven't seen that method before though, will definitely try it now lol. Davey - Yours probably wont be seized like ours as they don't salt the roads Ireland afaik? I have tried opening the slit with chisels and crowbars but cant seem to open it enough to make a noticeable difference. Though maybe monkeys have overtightened the pinch bolt before me lol.
RE: Lower ball joints - nominous - 09-01-2015
Exactly the problem I had. I opened it 10mm and it made naff all difference.
My astra had a similar method to teh pug and it wasn't that difficult changing the bottom arms.
Lower ball joints - jfb - 16-01-2015
Useful info! Gonna try this now, feeling confident ( is this foolhardy lol?)
RE: Lower ball joints - Matt-Rallye - 20-01-2015
(08-01-2015, 07:01 PM)Toms306 Wrote: That £152 will include tracking I'd guess. Tracking should be at least checked after changing the ball joints.
They're not difficult to do in that it is only 4 bolts, you have the 3 on the wishbone*, and then a pinch bolt on the shaft. The difficult part is removing the shaft from the hub, requires muscle, crowbars and hammers and usually ends in shouting or grazed knuckles lol.
*aftermarket wishbones have the ball joint riveted on so you cant really change those
Lower BJs don't usually clink though, they can knock or squeak in my experience, are you sure its that at fault?
*or for people that arent tom. just drill the rivets out and replace the ball joint
Also the first lesson of mechanics is that leverage is key! Longer the leveage, the easier it'll be. Big pry bar in the front, over the arm and under the chassis, rest bar right against the joint and lever straight downwards. if it resists just pull out and give it a few smacks with a hammer then go again. it'll come
RE: Lower ball joints - Pug0BZ3011 - 22-01-2015
Don't worry, it is a piss easy job... Jack car up and take wheel off, Remove pinch bolt (runs through hub and pinches end of ball joint) Now for the fun part; if you have enough room get a long pry bar and pry the wishbone down and the ball joint should pop out... now if it doesnt; try hitting the wishbone (don't go crazy) with a mallet (rubber if possible) after a bit of force it will pop out. Now if you look at your new ball joint you will find there are 3 bolts that connect it to the wishbown, remove 3 old bolts and old BJ comes off, replace with new. Now you will find the new one is easier going in... some people they forcing it up with a jack personally i tap with a mallet to force it in. Put pinch bolt back in and your good to go..hope this helps
RE: Lower ball joints - Paul_13 - 22-01-2015
Don't force it up with a jack you run the risk of ovalling the hub.
Pinch bolts are done up to 35nm, no more
RE: Lower ball joints - tigerstyle - 22-01-2015
It can be harder getting the new one back in I found, lining up the three bolts is a bit tricky when it's all under load, gently lever/hit/fight it into place.
RE: Lower ball joints - Pug0BZ3011 - 23-01-2015
(22-01-2015, 01:17 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: Don't force it up with a jack you run the risk of ovalling the hub.
Pinch bolts are done up to 35nm, no more
+1 On that- Using a BFO hammer is usually my last resort for things