10-01-2012, 10:48 PM
Shiz required:
New clutch cable.....clearly
A car to fit it to. Preferably a 306 otherwise your a idiot for following this.
Various sockets. Mainly 10 and 13mm
Jack and axle stands
String or some strong wire
Pry bar or something similar
A girlfriend/old girl who's good at bringing the coffee regularly.
Cakes and/or biscuits are optional but strongly recommended.
Jack the car up reasonably high at the front and place axle stands under both sills. I normally leave the jack under the car just touching the subframe as a extra safety measure.
Remove the battery and battery box. Remember to unplug the ecu and fuel relay on the back of the box. Box is held down by 4 10mm bolts.
You should now see the clutch release arm. Grab the end of th cable and pull it to the front of the car and out of the gap in the arm. Also, remove the plastic "block" from the gearbox that holds the cable sleeve in place.
Get under the car and look at the rear of the sub frame. You will see the auto adjuster is simply clipped to the subframe. Pull it off and pull the loose cable through.
Now, inside the car, push the clutch pedal down and release. Put your hand up to the top of the pedal and you should feel the white connector on the end of the cable. Tie your string/wire to this well and tie the other end to something solid.
Working in the engine bay, look at the bottom of the brake servo and you will see the cable poking through a tiny gap between the air con pipes and bulkhead. If you don't have air con, your very lucky in this case!!
Pull the loose cable up over the engine and get your pry bar.
Prise the zircon pipes towards the front of the car whilst tugging the cable (ooh err). Don't worry about the air con pipes. There fairly flexible!
You will feel the rubber grommet pop out of the bulk head. Now for the difficult bit.
Using your pry bar in various locations on the air con pipes, pull the grommet towards the passenger side. Once it's popped out from under the servo,MIT should be pretty free. The white clip inside the car might get caught on the bulkhead so you might have to get up under the dash and push it through.
It's free!!
Untie it from the wire and tie your new cable on. Pull it through and prise the pipes out of the way in the same way until its sitting roughly in position.
Ideally now you could do with a second pair of hands. Whilst your mate tugs your cable (I know what your thinking you dirty bastard) from inside, spray some wd40 on the grommet and use a screw driver to pop the grommet in. Done? Hard bit over. Go and get that cup of coffee and feel happy that you have just completed the hard part of one of the shittiest jobs on a 306!
Finished your coffee? Finished your cake? Good!
Originally I was going to fit the cable a different route to avoid the heat from the manifold but there isn't really anywhere better so reroute it the way you took it off.
Clip the black block back onto the gearbox and pop the cable back onto the release arm.
Get inside and feel your lovely feeling clutch! Stamp on it hard a few times to try and get the adjuster to adjust to the wear on your clutch. You will find this will happen a bit over the next few days as the cable stretches.
Replace battery box, battery and plug the ecu and and fuel relay back In.
Take it for a drive to make sure it's all working correctly.
Optional idea:
I was going to reroute the cable to avoid it drying out from the heat of the manifold. This is what normally makes clutches feel horrible in 306s and can even ruin the clutch if it's sticking and not releasing properly. Unfortunately the original location is about the best place really so what I have done is wrapped the adjuster in exhaust heat wrap. You only need a small amount and it should keep it nice and cool. I used some steel ties to hold it in place then spray painted it to try and seal it and avoid it soaking up crap!
New clutch cable.....clearly
A car to fit it to. Preferably a 306 otherwise your a idiot for following this.
Various sockets. Mainly 10 and 13mm
Jack and axle stands
String or some strong wire
Pry bar or something similar
A girlfriend/old girl who's good at bringing the coffee regularly.
Cakes and/or biscuits are optional but strongly recommended.
Jack the car up reasonably high at the front and place axle stands under both sills. I normally leave the jack under the car just touching the subframe as a extra safety measure.
Remove the battery and battery box. Remember to unplug the ecu and fuel relay on the back of the box. Box is held down by 4 10mm bolts.
You should now see the clutch release arm. Grab the end of th cable and pull it to the front of the car and out of the gap in the arm. Also, remove the plastic "block" from the gearbox that holds the cable sleeve in place.
Get under the car and look at the rear of the sub frame. You will see the auto adjuster is simply clipped to the subframe. Pull it off and pull the loose cable through.
Now, inside the car, push the clutch pedal down and release. Put your hand up to the top of the pedal and you should feel the white connector on the end of the cable. Tie your string/wire to this well and tie the other end to something solid.
Working in the engine bay, look at the bottom of the brake servo and you will see the cable poking through a tiny gap between the air con pipes and bulkhead. If you don't have air con, your very lucky in this case!!
Pull the loose cable up over the engine and get your pry bar.
Prise the zircon pipes towards the front of the car whilst tugging the cable (ooh err). Don't worry about the air con pipes. There fairly flexible!
You will feel the rubber grommet pop out of the bulk head. Now for the difficult bit.
Using your pry bar in various locations on the air con pipes, pull the grommet towards the passenger side. Once it's popped out from under the servo,MIT should be pretty free. The white clip inside the car might get caught on the bulkhead so you might have to get up under the dash and push it through.
It's free!!
Untie it from the wire and tie your new cable on. Pull it through and prise the pipes out of the way in the same way until its sitting roughly in position.
Ideally now you could do with a second pair of hands. Whilst your mate tugs your cable (I know what your thinking you dirty bastard) from inside, spray some wd40 on the grommet and use a screw driver to pop the grommet in. Done? Hard bit over. Go and get that cup of coffee and feel happy that you have just completed the hard part of one of the shittiest jobs on a 306!
Finished your coffee? Finished your cake? Good!
Originally I was going to fit the cable a different route to avoid the heat from the manifold but there isn't really anywhere better so reroute it the way you took it off.
Clip the black block back onto the gearbox and pop the cable back onto the release arm.
Get inside and feel your lovely feeling clutch! Stamp on it hard a few times to try and get the adjuster to adjust to the wear on your clutch. You will find this will happen a bit over the next few days as the cable stretches.
Replace battery box, battery and plug the ecu and and fuel relay back In.
Take it for a drive to make sure it's all working correctly.
Optional idea:
I was going to reroute the cable to avoid it drying out from the heat of the manifold. This is what normally makes clutches feel horrible in 306s and can even ruin the clutch if it's sticking and not releasing properly. Unfortunately the original location is about the best place really so what I have done is wrapped the adjuster in exhaust heat wrap. You only need a small amount and it should keep it nice and cool. I used some steel ties to hold it in place then spray painted it to try and seal it and avoid it soaking up crap!
![[Image: 00b41e89.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/00b41e89.jpg)
![[Image: dc9e4be6.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/dc9e4be6.jpg)
