306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

I'm sorry companion.
You will open the carter exactamene to see the problem?

The cartridge? Nah. The oil seal is gone. Pretty obvious.

I have setup a pressure gauge on the line...will test it in a bit.

Ordered a 1mm restrictor, hope that helps.

Right...pressure test.

On the end of the turbo oil supply line I have roughly 4bar at idle.
It raises as rpm raises.

I'd say thats a fair wack

Yeah that seems very high to me tbh for idle, normally goes up 1 bar per 1k rpm iirc, the pressure spring in pump is only 5 bar isnt it?

Remeber when its cold it will be higer than hot due to the viscosity of oil. Although saying that 4 bar should be fine.

Ruan and Tom are legends.

Cant say that enough. They dropped in on way back from Combe, helped refit the turbo, found a boost leak giving the scream and generslly helped me see the light again.

Thanks guys

The world is a better place to drive an xud in with guys like Ruan and Tom around

Glad you got it sorted. Always nice when you get support from people.

Appreciate all the kind comments on here too guys


Now to try and source new seals. May have to just buy some silicone hose and 8 jubilees!

Jubilees?! Cheap T bolt clamps ftw!

Cheap T bolts? I'd rather use decent quality jubilees. Cheaper and better.

So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

(14-09-2014, 07:04 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

It wouldve been at cold surely. The hotter it get the lower the pressure will get. So when the engines warmed up and you can give it some should be lower.

(14-09-2014, 07:04 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

If it's cold it will be high. My GTi sits at about 5 bar idle when stone cold dropping to about 2 when hot.

(14-09-2014, 07:04 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

60psi actually....but only for ball bearing turbos.

Journal bearings, like the GTB2056vlkr has, use a hydrodynamic film of oil to space them properly, much like crank bearings for instance.

There is the possibility of too much pressure still but it needs to be like 10bar+

Nono the cheap t bolts are great seriously! Cheaper than decent jubilees and work just aswell

Ordered a length of ASH hose and some stainless jubilees, all for £14 delivered. Cant imagine Pug supplying the bits I need for less than that, then me driving the1hr round trip get them....plus I rekon they will hold boost a lot better

T bolt clamps = uber wank.

Trying to use them anywhere apart from infront of you at the perfect angle will have me swearing in seconds.

Decent Jubilees will happily cut the silicon in half before breaking...

As said mate, replace those shitty things with silicon, hairspray the bastards and pop them on - I guarantee that problem will go, I didn't realise how wanky the stock thing is!!

(14-09-2014, 07:19 AM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]It wouldve been at cold surely. The hotter it get the lower the pressure will get. So when the engines warmed up and you can give it some should be lower.

Ah i see, i wasn't expecting him to check it at cold.

Pretty sure the ball bearing turbos won't take more than 3bar, i know they can cope with considerably less than the standard turbos. I'm fairly sure if you have a google you'll find the info, i'd find it for you but totally cba, just figured it was worth looking into where you're having such serious oil leakage problems. That said, now i know you were testing the oil pressure when cold it's not so much of a worry.

Hairspray?! Er, why!?

(15-09-2014, 07:09 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Hairspray?! Er, why!?

Helps hold it in place

(15-09-2014, 07:09 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Hairspray?! Er, why!?

Hairspray then fit. Even i know that this sets them like concrete and eliminates boost leaks

What are the jubilees for then!?

too clamp the pipes on.. Consider the hairspray as a 'gasket'

Yeah, it goes like a very thin film of glue which holds them on like a dream - had issues with pipes before and a simple blast of hairspray before they go on often will eliminate the hoses coming off.

Other one is a dab of fairy liquid as they go on, lubes it as it goes on, but holds them tight as hell when it sets!

Will get some hairspray. Do they still sell it or do I need to visit a 80s specialist shop!? Haha

Just send your wife for it dude

That standard split manifold design is terrible.

Tesco value hairspray mate
[attachment=19036]

(14-09-2014, 08:16 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]

(14-09-2014, 07:04 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

60psi actually....but only for ball bearing turbos.

Journal bearings, like the GTB2056vlkr has, use a hydrodynamic film of oil to space them properly, much like crank bearings for instance.

There is the possibility of too much pressure still but it needs to be like 10bar+

Remember it's a VLK, not VLKR - VLKR would be a ball bearing turbo.

These engines have a 5bar pressure regulator for when cold - so I seriously doubt there'll ever be any pressure problems in the turbo... Ball bearing units do need a restrictor, the journal units like these will have the restrictor also as they don't use the oil and bypass a large quantity for cooling like the oil/air cooled jounal bearing units.

This is a water cooled, journal bearing turbo... So uses less oil than a plain oil/air cooled journal bearing unit, but still less than a ball bearing unit. Don't think you can get a pure oil/air cooled ball bearing unit for that reason.

V = Variable Nozzle (VNT)
L = Liquid (Water) cooled CHRA
K = Electronic Actuator
R = Ball Bearing
S = Single Bypass Wastegate
N = Ported Shroud Compressor Cover

NOTE: Doesn't always conform, my old GT2052V was technically a GT2052SV as it had a slightly different compressor wheel...

Yeah sorry I keep adding the R

(15-09-2014, 01:33 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]

(14-09-2014, 08:16 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]

(14-09-2014, 07:04 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]So the oil pressure is fine..? 4bar at idle still seems a hell of a lot, garrett specify their turbos don't like more than 5bar feed pressure.

60psi actually....but only for ball bearing turbos.

Journal bearings, like the GTB2056vlkr has, use a hydrodynamic film of oil to space them properly, much like crank bearings for instance.

There is the possibility of too much pressure still but it needs to be like 10bar+

Remember it's a VLK, not VLKR - VLKR would be a ball bearing turbo.

These engines have a 5bar pressure regulator for when cold - so I seriously doubt there'll ever be any pressure problems in the turbo... Ball bearing units do need a restrictor, the journal units like these will have the restrictor also as they don't use the oil and bypass a large quantity for cooling like the oil/air cooled jounal bearing units.

This is a water cooled, journal bearing turbo... So uses less oil than a plain oil/air cooled journal bearing unit, but still less than a ball bearing unit. Don't think you can get a pure oil/air cooled ball bearing unit for that reason.

V = Variable Nozzle (VNT)
L = Liquid (Water) cooled CHRA
K = Electronic Actuator
R = Ball Bearing
S = Single Bypass Wastegate
N = Ported Shroud Compressor Cover

NOTE: Doesn't always conform, my old GT2052V was technically a GT2052SV as it had a slightly different compressor wheel...

How the f*ck do you know so much?