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Full Version: The Racetractor. The End.
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(29-08-2014, 07:36 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]
(29-08-2014, 07:27 PM)procta Wrote: [ -> ]piggy will the re body be like mine Tongue very quick!

Eh? Confused

sorry piggy had a internet crash and froze the bastard pc!
It should have said, will you be doing a re body as fast, like I did with mine? Tongue which was very quick! When I mean re body I mean reshell.
Yeah maybe. A full day I rekon it could be done. Not sure.


Anyway...

Been fiddling with the arduino maps and calibrations. Next step is N75 checks and sorting the actuator swap to the vaccuum can.
A full day? that's an engine swop man! be hard and swop the full lot over! looms the lot! Swopping the looms mind, gives you the chance to get rid of wiring and hard wire your stuff into place.
What do you do when you do stuff??? Tie your feet together!?

Can drop the entire front end all attached to the subframe with a few bolts. Loom just unplugs at the chassis leg dont forget

If I did a swap I be looking for a minter and thus intetior would stay original so it would be only gauges and flocked bits to swap.

Anyway ...thats a dream away.
(31-08-2014, 06:01 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]What do you do when you do stuff??? Tie your feet together!?

Can drop the entire front end all attached to the subframe with a few bolts. Loom just unplugs at the chassis leg dont forget

If I did a swap I be looking for a minter and thus intetior would stay original so it would be only gauges and flocked bits to swap.

Anyway ...thats a dream away.

a mint shell may still pop up, reason I had to swop over the full works, was due to new shell been a proper carb job, everything had to be swopped over to convert it over to injection, My subframes had uprated suspension. so that was a case of dropping those down, and transferring over. The car loom side of things had to be changed, due to me running the injection system, as the metro carb loom didn't have the wiring for the tank pump and wiring for the later alarm system.
What you want to do piggy when you re shell it, is gut your old one right down, swop over some of the bits that are good. ( rob it of every single screw too!)
Still fighting this earth issue....

Have to do more testing tomorrow. Im brain dead.
Whats this earth issue you have?
Dirty earth running back to the arduino for some reason. I think its noise from the alternator. But its playing havoc with the RPM signal.

Added more earths to the arduino...fixed it I thought...then soldered it all up and refitted all the bits and it came back.

Only comes back after the main engine load has stopped after few minutes of the engine running
So it has a perfectly clean earth when being bench tested but when fitted to the car and running, you get voltage feeding back?
Or when I tested it on the car yesterday with additional earths clipped on it was good...soldered them on today and refitted and it came back again.

Seems to be worse when driving than idling
(31-08-2014, 06:50 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Or when I tested it on the car yesterday with additional earths clipped on it was good...soldered them on today and refitted and it came back again.

Seems to be worse when driving than idling

Don't have any other issues with the car? If i was you, i would look at cleaning up your main earths within the engine bay. Any bad earths (common the main battery earths are corroding up quite a bit now days) could be causing a bit of resistance and back feeding causing all sorts of other issues. You will find things like ECUs aren't too susceptible to this sort of thing as they are designed for a 'dirty' power source but the arduino is very basic and won't have this sort of protection (although could be added with ease)
Earths are all good.

Relocated battery and had gearbox off only 500miles ago so all earths were off, cleaned and put back on. I am considering a big ass earth for back to front and added more connections in places.

But I rekon its a loom issue backfeeding. Next to test more

Have had stereo interference before from alternator
Do not run a earth from the front to the back. It will not achieve anything except extra resistance and more weight.

Could be a bad voltage regulator in the alternator so if you have a spare, try sacking that on but to me it sounds like a bad earth somewhere.
I dont have a spare :-(

Guna take the 'excitor' off tomorrow and see what happens.

Fair advice on the earth. Will check my earths...but I had the issue from get go with stereo and thats with nice fresh connections.



Took ZxVolcane our for a run tonight....unfortunately not much to impress him with Undecided
Earth problems really can be a bastard to trace. I hate finding them at work and they are normally in huge buildings yet still find it even more difficult in cars unless its an obvious one!
Your telling me..... Lost count of early mornings, long afternoons and evenings, late nights...etc...to find the ruddy issue
What power supply are you using for the Arundel are you using screened cables for your signal wires are you running any type of suppression capacitor on the positive rail ???
No Im not using screened signal wires. And i think that maybe my issue...although Tom was looking at it last night and didnt seem to indicate he uses screened anything. Neither has Ruan.

Although I think that maybe my issue.

Im using 12v regulators before the 5v reg (for sensors) and a 9v reg (for the arduino) to try and clean it up.

Its only when I plug in the sensor loom I get the issue though....so it has to be in there somewhere.

Nice link there ...I tried using Google translate and it didnt work though ss I dont think Google translates 'smart geek' into Piggy speak
Car goes well, good linear torque - needs more boost

I don't see the point in using a 12v reg down to another 5v reg if you're not using 12v. What are the specs on the 12v regs? How much headroom do they need to operate?
It was suggested on a few forums and others to give it a clean 12v and to help the 5v and 9v regs a little
Hello , i am sorry i can't post in my camshaft selling thread , if you are intersted , the camshaft are modified in Hungary at gaal motorsport , they have higher lift (i told them i wanted to fit the stock egnine) , inlet and exhaust . I had 2 pieces ,1 i sold here and it was used on the 406td and one for my car(not started yet) , unfortunetly xud11 can`t be safe after 250hp with stock rods(and expensive to make for it) and now we are building xud9 , hope it helps . Next camshafts will be made in the same place for xud 9 .
Thanks for the info. Will have a think.



So, alternator seems to have failed.

Now just need to figure out what car it came off to get a new one Confused
I have the same situation...about 5 cars worth of different parts on the 206.

Arduino taking too much load? lol

Have you found your earth issues?

Will be all worth it in the end.
Have a feeling its a faulty alternator causing signal issues....

Hoping new alternator will fix both issues!

I had to get about 5 different alternators originally to find one that fitted!
If your battery is vaguely healthy, could you not just remove the alternator belt (and if needs be, disconnect the main positive feed from the alternator) and run the engine up to see if the noisy earth issue goes away?

If it does, it points at the alternator as you suspect, and if it doesn't, you know the issue is elsewhere and you've saved having to buy and fit a replacement alternator for no reason.
Or replace my alternator anyway because its not charging?!
Ah, I hadn't spotted that it wasn't charging at all anyway, only that you suspected it of being behind the noise issues.
So while other great projects are showing off their amazing new turbos....

I thought I should join in....



[attachment=18788]




Yup...a second hand valeo alternator! lol
Hey that looks familiar....
Glad to see it arrived nice and quick for you Smile