I've sorta recommended to James to use the flow from the back of the cylinder head to the heater matrix to put through the turbo - it should be ~82*c under normal running conditions, and it'll warm up fast. The water will ALWAYS be cooler than the CHRA - putting cool water flow post radiator is likely to thermal shock it - the greatest damage is done with changes in temperature.
I'd be very worried of having it post thermostat, especially on a Diesel - they take so long to truly heat up and the thermostat is often cutting in and out to maintain the temperature - you're likely to have essentially no flow, then bring the engine to FULL power, until the heat actually comes off the cylinder head into the coolant, finally warms the thermostat, it opens, then you get water flow - by that time the turbo is absolutely cooking hot, you're likely to have boiled off the coolant in the CHRA before the thermostat even opened and let water through. Especially in winter when you've got the interior heaters blowing red hot - you can get to the point where if the engine is under low load, the amount of heat generated isn't even enough to open the main thermostat, you end up cooling the engine just with the heater matrix!
I know the J2TE and CDTX etc have it post thermostat, however those engines have a much more stable coolant temperature since they dump so much more heat into the coolant- once the engine is warm, the thermostat is generally at least open a percentage all the time. I guess it's a big disadvantage of having such high thermal efficiency in an engine.
I'd be interested to see how Volvo originally plumbed those units in.
(02-08-2014, 09:23 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]2 steps forward. Feels like 2 steps back tonight 
Feel like chucking this turbo through a window
Ive now measured, tacked, lined up, ground off, remeasured and retacked the manifold pipe about 10times now.
Its doing my head in.
Who's bloody idea was this anyway 
After the matrix is done and this is done, thats it. I'll save for new b8s and eibach pro springs and Im done. Had enough of not eating, stress, bashed fingers and the money pit.
Im done modding.
I know things are a bastard piggy, just back off and come back to it with a fresh mind. I have done that many a time, then things really pushed on afterwards.
I'll give you scrap+10%.
good god thats mental boost, just try winding the stop a little or adjusting the actuator.
volvo would be interesting, not sure it will differ much seeing as its mostly pug engines they use
(05-08-2014, 11:08 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]good god thats mental boost, just try winding the stop a little or adjusting the actuator.
Will adjusting a bit tonight and taking for a spin!!
(05-08-2014, 11:50 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]volvo would be interesting, not sure it will differ much seeing as its mostly pug engines they use
Haha yeah, the D5 motors are vastly different however - they're their own design... Only the smaller ones that use the PSA lumps.
Only other one with watercooled cores is the Mercedes CDis with the VLKR units.
(However there is no stop on the GTB and GTC series due to the electronic actuators they use...so its arm adjustment and then spacer the actuator otherwise you get too much preload. Bit of a bitch really...be much easier once I get the arduino wired up imo!!)
(05-08-2014, 12:52 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ] (05-08-2014, 11:50 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]volvo would be interesting, not sure it will differ much seeing as its mostly pug engines they use
Haha yeah, the D5 motors are vastly different however - they're their own design... Only the smaller ones that use the PSA lumps.
Only other one with watercooled cores is the Mercedes CDis with the VLKR units.
Alfa also use the GTB2056 watercooled I believe in the latest 2.4jtd.
Mine was electronic actuator, and I had no stop - I ended up blowing my head gasket due to the immense backpressure and cooking my turbo, so be wary of this with where your resting position is. Its just generally a bitch to sort out and everyone with vnt's have these issues that need to be ironed out.
Good to see its on and running, space out the vac can a bit with washers so the vanes aren't held so closed and you'll be good to go. Or drill and tap for a stop screw.
I cant space it open more...have to adjust the arm. Then space the boost can to remove the preload from adjusting the arm!!!
May put a stop screw in when I use the vac can though in case of line failures etc.
Tom, I should have asked you really, where have you run your CHRA coolant lines to??
The 2260vk isn't watercooled, can't you adjust your bracket position?
(05-08-2014, 03:34 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: [ -> ]The 2260vk isn't watercooled, can't you adjust your bracket position?
Ah thats interesting.
Only a tiny bit. Due to position of cold side and oil line not being a 90 fitting (cant find one with the sizes I need) and the bonnet.
I did have a lovely smart bracket made and lots of clearance...till I fudged up the hot side mounting and it meant I needed to clock the cold side some more
Been out for maden voyage.
Had a fiddle with arm again as it was bit too eager boosting. Probably went too far as max boost is about 1.1bar but Im happy with that for now. Need to bed in clutch and let things settle in.
Couple concerns.... Engine seems a lot throatier with the GTB. Maybe thats fine.
Paddle clutch is juddery as hell.....hope that will bed in and get at least a bit smoother???...can barely reverse the bugger.
Coolant pressure a little high once I had got home. Temps are as normal...but pressure isnt. Hoping she is just a bit full.
That or Ive blown the HG already
Guna drive round in it all day tomorrow nice n steady to bed things in.
Wish me luck!!!
On the up side...it gathers speed so easily and without fuss...and the throttle response is amazing!
paddle clutches hate being slipped, so yes reversing is a pain with them, they're meant to be an on-off switch really, clutches dont need bedding in given they aren't meant to slip.
coolant pressure-its normal to have pressure in there when hot, the release pressure is 1.5 bar, if its plain water it will expand more too.
Aye I know about required pressures but it was a little more than usual.
Although good call on the dilution...it is only about 10% max antifreeze. Hmmm. I am quite paranoid about HGs and pressures...maybe its me!!!
My first experience with a paddle clutch on a diesel. Have to keeps revs up more I guess when manauvering CG said 500niles of gentle driving before giving it the beans!!
For a stop feed the actuator with boost to get it to its full extension then run a die all the way along it and you can use a double nut on it as a stop.
I havnt got a die n tap set. Lent it out n lost it.
It seems ok as it is. Wont be long till arduino is in
So....wheres your vnt'd 2.1?
My paddle will shudder the s**t out the car unless you give it at least fast idle to put away. Has got better over time.
was going to drop it out the car after all the horror story's i've been seeing regards to the CG paddles. Though if I cant see it and its drives fine i'm not too worried.
Good to hear she's running. Ought to get a video with everything running
My 2.4 alfa 156 jtd has a paddle its about 10k old and still judders like f*ck, my driveway is reversing up a slight hill over 2 kerbs haha
Im a bit worried ive ruined its drivability due to the clutch judder
Think I need a new big ass air filter...
Any suggestions??
(06-08-2014, 08:24 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Im a bit worried ive ruined its drivability due to the clutch judder
Think I need a new big ass air filter...
Any suggestions??
Cba to look back, is it sprung? Apparently this one is but im not sure, its an absolute pig in traffic, and changing down from aay 3rd to 2nd, judders until revs/speed match, if you pull away about 1600 rpm its fine though, but you cant go slow lol
Surprised you went for sprung, I thought they were known for snapping the springs post 270ish lb/ft?
(06-08-2014, 08:47 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah its sprung
![[Image: disgusted-oh-god.png]](http://cdn.alltheragefaces.com/img/faces/png/disgusted-oh-god.png)
(06-08-2014, 08:47 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: [ -> ]Surprised you went for CG, I thought they were known for snapping the springs post 270ish lb/ft?
EFA.
I believe the honda s2000 air filter is suitably huge. Can't wait until we can get some on-boost vids of this thing.
bahah awesome you have been for first trip in it! just dont push it if you've got the vanes opening properly. having too much EMP is FAR worse than having too much boost and will kill your HG much quicker so be wary. It will lift your head like a piece of ply wood over an exhaust pipe. WHat control do you have with your boost can? If its only boosting 1.1 bar get an MBC on it, remember adjusting your actuator will alter boost, and alter when it starts spooling.
Strange your clutch is so juddery for a sprung, mines an unsprung and its like using a normal clutch but with a sharp bite.
Driven lots of XUDs with sprung and unsprung clutches.
All judder a little, but generally the sprung clutches judder more, don't know why since sprung clutches are supposed to stop that... But anyway, that's just my findings.
(06-08-2014, 09:16 AM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]Driven lots of XUDs with sprung and unsprung clutches.
All judder a little, but generally the sprung clutches judder more, don't know why since sprung clutches are supposed to stop that... But anyway, that's just my findings.
Agreed Ruan. Mine was an unsprung one, and other than a bit of judder pulling away it was fine.
JP
^^^ Gotta say I prefer the unsprung ones too, theres f*ck all difference and with the unsprung you cant snap the springs.
(06-08-2014, 05:54 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]I havnt got a die n tap set. Lent it out n lost it.
It seems ok as it is. Wont be long till arduino is in
So....wheres your vnt'd 2.1?
If you want to borrow my tap and die set pop over.
Mine will probably be done next week. Gonna make up the plate for the manifold today and maybe see about starting the link pipe before night shift tonight.