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(02-08-2014, 09:23 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]After the matrix is done and this is done, thats it. I'll save for new b8s and eibach pro springs and Im done. Had enough of not eating, stress, bashed fingers and the money pit.

Im done modding.

Ha know exactly that feeling mate, give it a few days off and you'll be itching to get on with it again the problems are part of the process

Tbh your making much better progress than I'd expected before I had a look in here, turbo looks sweet polished though
(02-08-2014, 09:23 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]After the matrix is done and this is done, thats it. I'll save for new b8s and eibach pro springs and Im done. Had enough of not eating, stress, bashed fingers and the money pit.

Im done modding.

lololololololol said every car enthusiast at some point - you'll never be able to walk away Wink
Dont worry mate, I'm having exactly the same hissy fit with mine. Not modding wont last.
I know I know but it was suposed to be running by last night. I need it for work next week so its time critical.. So skipping a meal had to be done...

Seriously though, unless its direct swap bolt on....Ive had enough modding for my life!

Decided the adjuster will just have to be used......IE the 3lb hammer
You'll think like that now, but when it finally gets on boost pulling like bloody mary with a sorted controller it'll all make sense. Guaranteed to have teething issues when you think about what your actually trying to do, but its all the more worth it when it does finally give you that thrill we all look for when bolting big snails onto cars.
Thanks Dave.

Any thoughts on which water lines to use to plumb the turbo coolant lines into!??

SO much mixed info on the net nowadays.
Apologies mate if this has been covered in the rest of your thread, but are you trying to implement the turbo/arduino controller both at once? What I'm saying is why not get the turbo on, worry about all the hardware side of stuff 1st, then when you have time play with the blower controller - this was much less stressful when I as I still had a car to use in the meantime. I'm sure you don't need the controller to use the turbo, just stick the vanes in an open position when done testing.

Water lines I'm not too sure, does it defo need them? what did the blower come off? I was going to hook my blower to the matrix lines before not sure how ideal this is though. Keep at it! will be worth it
Yeah, I am pal, the arduino stuff is all ina box and hasnt been touched for a week or so.

I've got a boost can on the GTB for now. Get it running, bed the clutch in while I build the loom and find places for sensors, then I can fiddle with Arduino once clutch in bedded in.

Helps MASSIVELY with efficiency to get the lines plumbed in. I want to try and keep things simple and TRY and avoid water injection, and thus plumbing it in may well help.

I dont want to disturb the matrix lines if I can help it really.

But I was thinking of using the Matrix RETURN as the turbo SUPPLY.
and the turbo RETURN to the heat exchanger rad RETURN.

make sense?
Yeh makes sense, if the blower is off a derv and has water lines best to use them. Get the boost can on and get it moving and it'll feel like your making process, where are you upto now then? Having it from the matrix return would be where I would put it.
At 10pm ish last night I rewelded for like the 5th the exhaust supply flange.

Later today I hold to grind it clean and repaint. Then bolt it all up.

Only other thing to do is tap into manifold for boost take off and plumb in coolant lines.
I feel your pain I need my car every night for work so I'm always limited for time, I have learnt to always make sure I can put it back to how it was that way it saves any stress or hassle missing work cos cars in bits, if I was you I'd have waited with selling the gt20 and had it as a back up plan for when it goes tit's up cos it always will modifying never goes easy!
Keep at it Piggy. If it drives anything like Tom's when you're done it'll all be worthwhile Wink

As for the fabbing. At one point doing Toms manifold after spending hours cutting bits of old manifold up to maximize available materials, cleaning them up ready to re-use and then starting out with the initial plan things weren't working out and I couldn't see it happening so I sacked it off for the night.
Next morning, fresh start, couple of cups of tea and it still wasn't happening. Tom wanders along so I tell him I'm thinking of cutting it all up and changing the plan. To this I get a definite NO because of all the time I'd already spent.

Amazing how quickly you can cut things apart and end up with a load of bits!

Next time Tom came out all he said was "You didn't did you......" lol

Cutting it all up and re-utilizing the same bits in a different order was the best thing I could have done in the long run Wink That's fabrication for you, especially if you don't do it every day!
Peugeot plumb the XU10J2TE from the top hose - turbo - water pump, so it only gets coolant flow when the thermostat opens, running it too cold is as bad as too hot.

edit, also looking at the EP6DT/DTS engines they are plumbed in the same way, thermostat takeoff/top hose-turbo - water pump inlet manifold.


not many of the o.e diesel engines are water cooled turbos, EGTS can't be anywhere near high enough for them to worry about it even when running FAP's.
Not sure I can take it off the top hose.

Seems odd to me...why would you run boiling hot water through to cool it?? Boiling hot water which will be even hoter when leaving the turbo only to go directly back to the pump/head without being cooled.

Most OE diesel cars are now running water cooled turbos. All the GTA/B/C turbos anyhow. EGTs of over 1000degrees Im sure warrants some cooling!!

Aids massively in efficiency and keeping the turbo in its prime. I can see the benefit to it being stat controlles though
(03-08-2014, 06:14 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]I know I know but it was suposed to be running by last night. I need it for work next week so its time critical.

Mine was supposed to be running Friday as there was no trains to get me to work this weekend but I managed to blag lifts both days.
Took a day off from it today.
Work tomorrow till 3ish. Then get it running by 9pm is my goal.
I read on another forum the gtb2056vl cartridge was good up to about 120 degrees centigrade and a lot of the vag boys run them without water cooling

When I do mine I'm thinking of going off a heater matrix pipe but instead of running pipe so it's engine>turbo>heater matrix in think it's more advisable to run engine>t piece to turbo>turbo>t piece to matrix so that you've still got an unrestricted flow to matrix as well as the teed off feed to the turbo. If that makes any sense.

Would be advantageous in winter as your heaters will get warmer a lot quicker!
coolant wont be boiling, will be circa 83 degrees as that's what the thermostat opens at, which is in the efficient temp window for most engines.

coolant on the rad exit side will be a lot cooler, too cold for a hot turbocharger.
Lots of ideas. But no onr agrees with the other. Same with online stuff. Makes things more complicated.

I may get it running tomorrow and run coolant lines at later date
not seen any o.e layout that differs from that.
Need a free flow pipe setup to allow for thermo syphoning
A picture says a thousand words....so have two...

[attachment=18202]
[attachment=18203]

Itwasntme
That looks so good makes me want to 2.1 mine. Well done on keeping at it. Cant wait to see what sort of power figures this makes.
Blue silicone?? I'm surprised at you James haha
(04-08-2014, 09:58 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: [ -> ]Blue silicone?? I'm surprised at you James haha

Did you expect pink?! Lol
(04-08-2014, 10:01 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]
(04-08-2014, 09:58 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: [ -> ]Blue silicone?? I'm surprised at you James haha

Did you expect pink?! Lol

I would have thought oem black haha
Congratulations companion, as I come to a road test?
That put the turbo sits right there, everything is at hand. . . .
I see you do not already have the arduino ok?
What is it like with the lung by pressure?
Awesome dude. See you've moved to using the oem boost take off like me. Have you driven her yet, what's she like?
I'll be using nore blue bits in the pipework I expect. The exterior wont change much so best have something to look at when you open the bonnet!



No arduino yet. My lungs are knackered yeah! Lol! Arduino is obviously next step.





Boost take off there makes sense....its nice n close and no need to remove manifold to make the tap/hole!! Lol. Not driven yet. She wont even rev much due to massive EMPs...

Its making boost almost at idle... Half a bar of boost by 1500rpm in neutral...thats with very very gentle throttle. But the huge EMPs bog it and it wont rev any more! Need to fiddle with actuator quite a bit and get it setup right. A bit annoying as it will get sacked of for arduino but its still quicker in the short term to get things on the road!
I had a similar issue to what your having, the engine felt totally 'strangled'