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Full Version: Bendix or Girling?
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Nothing on any of the components to indicate whether it's one or the other but looking at the diagrams of the two in Haynes, this is looking like a Bendix setup to me, right?
Sorry as ours has discs on the rear but the wheel cylinder usually had bendix written/cast on somewhere, what does ecp recon?

The cataloques may help in indentifying the shoes/cylinder ?

New cylinders are not that expensive, can seals/repair kits be obtained these days ?

Be prepared to have new brake pipes made up..........several days of soaking in penetrant will help as well as make a short tube to place over the nipple and filling that up with penetrant also.....that does work most of the time.
look at the shape of the cylinder where it pokes through the backplate, that ia the main way to i.d them.

alao look if you have a load compensator or not.
Back of the plate. I'm pretty sure this is a Bendix system. Also I'm getting a litre of brake fluid, is that enough to bleed all four brakes including two new rear wheel cylinders?
Depends on how much fluid you loose.

Soak the union and nipple in penetrent after you have given them a good wire brush.

If it where mine I would use some old windscreen washer tube or similar and place over the nipple with the tube pointing up. I would fill the tube with pentrent and allow to really soak and work its way "inside" the nipple and the cavity between the nipple internal hole and cylinder, with the penetrent working its way up the thread inside the hole.

If you can leave it for a day or two even better. This method does work most of the time but since you will be getting a new cylinder it may be time wasted.

With care it looks as if the union will come out ok without twisting and wrecking the copper brake pipe.

If the cylinder holding bolts break off then hurray !

If the copper brake pipe is held fast to the union, then rotating the cylinder would be a way of dealing with the problem, with some "aftercare" of the union when the cylinder is off.

You know of the trick by placing some plastic cling film or similar over the master cylinder top and screwing the lid back on to slow down or stop the loss of fluid.

Is the fluid in the master cylinder black or discoloured?

If so use a very clean and dry sucktion device to remove the old fluid and top up with new.

I tend to use the gravity/syphon drip drip drip technique of initial fluid changing/bleeding first collecting the old fluid from the nipple into an old jam jar until new clean fluid comes thru, on all 4 nipples, then use the assistant/pumping method.

Follow the manual on bleeding.

1 litre of fluid should be enough.

Take your time and enjoy.

PS i try to avoid using brake hose clamps, i use blanked off unions when i can.

You gunna paint the back plates ?

Where the cataloque brake shoe images any use?
Haynes manual was right, it's Bendix. Confusingly, the diagrams of the drum brakes on Servicebox look identical for Bendix and Girling. But I just noticed that the brake fluid reservoir had "Bendix" embossed on it dagh Rolleyes

Have to say that was a pig of a job, those springs are an absolute b!tch. And the unions on the brake lines had all seized so had to replace those too.

However, the sense of achievement which comes with rebuilding a pair of these for the first time... just hope it all works!
you have the handbrake a bit too tight by the look of it, adjustment of the shoes shoild be purely by the adjusters not cables.
Could that by why there appears to be quite a lot of drag on that side? The thing is, adjustment would push the shoes out further as far as I can tell, thereby causing even more drag?