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I'm jumping in on this halfway through because all of the first bit is covered in the clutch fitting guide 

This is where I am now as you can see if the pics are working the box is most of the way in, there's a clearance problem on the diff but I think if I drop the subframe i will not be a problem now or in the future.[attachment=29448]

[attachment=29447]

As for drive shafts I have had a measure up and am going to see where it all sits.
You can drop the sub frame or modify the sub frame by cutting and adding strength else where.

Didn't know the ML bolted up to a XU.
needs a chunk cutting out to move the diff back, also yes you can space the subframe down about 10mm on the original bolts fine iirc to give more clearance for the cv's.

on that side you need to trim the lip back a bit too

(18-02-2017, 08:01 PM)allye Wrote: [ -> ]didn't know the ML bolted up to a XU.

it does if you use the xud11 box.
Watching with interest
just a quick up date the sub frame has been trimed up and all fits with pinnkey fingers width around the drive shaft cups and a 2002 406 hdi lower engine mount to get it to what i think is the right angle. so i just need to get the trigger pattern put on the flywheel and it should run, then thers the clutch and gear lever.
clutch and gear lever is relatively simple, 206 master fitted to adapted d9 406 or c5 pipework and slave cylinder.

shifter is essentially remove all the original rods and fit the cable setup, mak some brackets to hold the box up
so weekend update flywheel is off at the enginers getting the trigger pattern put in and the drive shafts are going to be put together tomorrow and the left engine mount will be started
just a small on today is up hand hainging free best bit is i've still got full left hand lock
things have started to flagg, i'm wating for stuff to be done by others
Interesting about the no rubbing. In a 205/309 it does catch a little, nothing like a 6 speed though.
i will get some pics up of the wheel clerance once the traking and stuff is sorted out
Good work on all the updates

This is a super useful thread.

Please do add any more photos if you have them Smile
next up is a bit of maths to get the right spot on the peddel but its not to hard oh and the dash bord think i might flock it whils it out

check this out if you want a bit of insight

https://mechguru.com/machine-design/vari...lculation/
Nice work getting the ML6 to fit! More pictures are appreciated Smile.
things are moving forward at the enginers so i will be getting back on this soon
[attachment=30171]

so how wise is removing 50% of that chassis rail to get a clutch cylinder in and can i put a strut brace in to counter cuting that bit out, thers a lot of rust down there so that will be getting dealt with whilst i'm there
Id say it wouldnt be to much of an issue as long as you stregthend it up again. Personally though ive seen a few hydro setups now and none have had to cut that bit


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(02-07-2017, 05:38 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]Id say it wouldnt be to much of an issue as long as you stregthend it up again. Personally though ive seen a few hydro setups now and none have had to cut that bit
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i've not seen any so i am thinking this through and asking questions
what cylinder are you using? I think a 206 cylinder might fit in the gap and does have a nice 2 bolt flange.
Problem I found was there just wasnt room there behind the motor to put a cylinder directly on the bulkhead.... Although things may differ with other motors. But mine is at 15 degrees and still not nearly enough room there...
looking at the 307 and corsa c cylinder atm but any sugestions are welcome, i think the 206 cylinder is a littel to big
307 cylinder is far bigger and a much more awkward fitting type to use, the reason a 206 slave is suggested is they have a shorter body and a 2 bolt flange.
I used a 206 cylinder on my conversion and has been working great so far...
i will post up some pics soon as to what has been happing slowly and what i did with the clutch master