306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3402643.htm

Really?

Tis a bit steep

TBH its not terrible if its been rebuilt (and theres no tapping). Needs a remap though just to get it to where it should be with the power.

£2500-£3500 IMHO as alot of work has gone into that. Look at how much Scott paid for his S16

232bhp and estimates its 0-60 at 8.5 seconds? Hmm. It's slower than standard!

Dum-Dum Wrote:TBH its not terrible if its been rebuilt (and theres no tapping). Needs a remap though just to get it to where it should be with the power.

£2500-£3500 IMHO as alot of work has gone into that. Look at how much Scott paid for his S16

People just don't want to pay that sort of money for something that will cost a hell of a lot to run...as much as though sound and drive amazingly.

If it's been rebuilt properly then yeah, but am I the only one who noticed:
Rebuild: 67,000
Cambelt snap: 70,000

Doesn't really give me much faith in the rest of the work

True Chris!

But even I know that having a fried alternator is not good, and that a cambelt snapping 3000 miles after an engine rebuild is terrible! Definitely not worth 5K IMO

Even if the bodies are lush!

LOL! 3000 miles after a rebuild by pug1off the cambelt snaps, great advert for business

Lol at 3000 miles, was the cambelt an elastic band?

232BHP after all those mods ?! i would have thought cams and bodies alone would have made that power

Also he had his Bloke overbored?

Thats nice to know but i dont see how its relevant hock:

Midnightclub Wrote:232BHP after all those mods ?! i would have thought cams and bodies alone would have made that power

Nah, you're looking at around 210-220bhp with lairy cams and bodies.
Everyone expects bodies to make a shitload more hp over the stock inlet. Fact is, the standard '6 manifold is well designed, so you don't get a HUGE gain by bodying. More specifically, people assume they get a hp gain with bodies because the majority of people go for short trumpets, which deliver top=end hp at the expense of mid-range torque. Longer trumpets will give better mid-range at the expense of out&out top-end hp. So without modifying the final drive (ie. bringing the speed @ a given rpm DOWN), with short trumpets, you end up with a car which revs its tits off but is practically undrivable at lower rpms. Which absolutely means the 0-60 is mega-gash.

So if you're building a race engine, where the aim is to always be at the top of the revs, they are better. If it's not a racecar, its a lot of money which could/should be spent elsewhere IMHO.

I've digressed. Also, no-ones noticed, but that's actually a 2.1 with that overbore. He should be making more of that, because it makes a BIG difference to power delivery. THAT application will work very well with shorter trumpets and lairy cams; if some of the results on the '6 forum are anything to go by; it'll be making more than stock power @ 5,000rpm... which is bloody impressive.

And on a final point, the engine build alone would've cost about 5k.
bodies ~ £12-1500
cams ~ £400-500
2.1 over bore, lightened knifedged crank ~ £1000
p&p high-flow head with all valves replaced ~ £450
Solid Lifter Kit ~ £550
forged hi-comp rods n pistons ~ £900
Mapping ~ £400

And thats without any rebuild costs, or any of the bushes/mounts/sundries used in the rebuild.

I know its a buyers market with the price of fuel economic downturn blahblah, but imo its not too far off what it should be priced at. he could make most of it back by breaking...

I hope at least some of that makes a bit of sense.... I tend to get keyboard diahorrea on the subject of n/a tuning. mostly because I would if i had the money, but I dont at the moment!

Definitely some keyboard diahorrea there Ed...

Cheers Kim. happy to help