Everything that could have gone, has gone wrong with my PAS pump relocation.
I've finally moved the pump and it's all connected to the AUX belt, but in the move I connected up the pipe and flex connection wrong. Trying to fix this I've buggered up the pipe connection into the pump.
Does anyone know where I can get an angled after-market connector into the pump, high pressure hose and a connector onto the piping which feeds under the engine block?
Thanks
Have you tried places like pirtek? They stick pretty much everything
just tell them what you need, or even better take a sample to them with the right threads and they should be able watch it up for you
(22-05-2016, 08:42 AM)insomaniac45 Wrote: [ -> ]Have you tried places like pirtek? They stick pretty much everything just tell them what you need, or even better take a sample to them with the right threads and they should be able watch it up for you
I was in two minds whether to call their 24/7 onsite service.
Have done a pikey fix until Monday when I can get hold of Earls Performance:
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how many people wanna bet it stays like that
nowt wrong with it now fella :p
Have been for two really heavy blasts around some country lanes - No leaks so far!!
itll be one of those "wont leak, just explode" things most likely. lol
Pirtek or flowcontrol, pretty much any half decent hydraulic hose supplier will be able to make/supply the required pipes and fittings.
I wouldn't want to be using copper for a second more than I absolutely needed to.. Burst strength of Cu isn't huge at larger diameters hence they more often use steel,
Soft copper case hardens aswell
that would be the short fatigue life.. its not rated for the pressures so expands and stretches, hardens, then bursts..
you can have it last months or even years, or days. Thinner lines (such as brake lines) have max operating pressures much lower than hydraulic lines, also the thinner the hose in relation to the sidewall thickness is allow it to sustain for longer periods higher pressures.
the ratio is quite low in normal copper pipe (large diameter vs thin wall) which means that huge forces can be exerted on the sidewalls which physically aren't strong enough to handle it. Power steering pumps can put out anywhere between 350psi to over 2500 (we had one at work powering a small bench press and it would pop rams not rated appropriately when run with a 1hp motor) it depends, also, where the relief is set and I don't know what that is in the 306. Bear in mind that hitting potholes and bumps can also spike the pressure into the thousands even if the pump doesn't do it normally
Just a temp stop gab for over the weekend so I could get the car running and look at a TB problem.
The connectors and pipe are rated at 1000psi and since I wasn't planning on driving the car too much, thought I'd take the risk
Cheers for the info guys - Always appreciated
Tbh fella, I've seen a lot worse temporary repairs, It's not pikey it's more A-Team
lol