306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

So I have finally decided to change the rear beam. Well the car decided for me, as the rims for summer has a different ET, and got stuck on the arch
Brake lines have been there since 94, and are pretty stuck. Been spraying em with freeze spray, but don't seem to want to come loose. Slightly rounded the small union because it is rusty. Vice grips next. But to the question. If the brake, or maybe I should do it anyways since they are so rusty. Is it hard to change them? Or are they pretty accessible all the way to the master cylinder? Bit risky to do myself? My local dealer sells flaring kits and the rest I need for a ok price. Easy to make mistakes when flaring?

"editing in new question":
Removing the lines from the splitterthingy just over the subframe. I will probably empty the reservoir of brake fluid then? And its not a clear path to the ground. Will the brake fluid destroy any rubber bushings it hits on the way, or is it nothing to worry about. Just try to catch as much as possible?

If they're original I think I'd just cut them off and replace the lot, not sure I'd trust 22 year old steel lines!

Flaring is easy. Getting the pipes bent in the right place and making it all look neat is the difficult part. I'm not sure what the parts supply is like in Norway but you might still be able to buy some of the lines ready made up?

They might have been changed at some point, but got the service history up to about 2008, and can't find anything about it. If they are easy to replace, I think I'll check with peugeot how much they want. And if its alot more expensive than doing it myself. If not I'll buy a flare tool and pipe bender. Don't have to look pretty, as long as it works

Thanks Tom

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Got one loose with a bit of wiggeling, and the other one just snapped. Used no force at all. Lots of rust. So new brake lines it is. Maybe thats why they have felt a bit weak lately. Probably a small leak.

I too had union problems doing the flexy hoses xmas time, but I have had a flare tool for years and years and years.

the rear pipes where all ok except for the last couple of inches, and after cutting the unions off to replace the flexy's.

I used in line couplers, which accept the male unions both ends, unlike the male/female couplers that are on the car as oe?

I used  copper based hydraulic brake pipe which is easy to work with, but does "work harden" once formed, so get it right first time.

the rear passenger bulkhead in front of the tank was where I installed the couplers, with copper pipe to each flexy hose. I also renewed the rather "amateur" pipes form the flexy to the caliper with copper based pipe. Passed mot with a "nice job" remark from the tester.

bit surprised that the rear sus arm pipes are all metal considering the calipers are a slide type design, but wih good length of pipe, this movement is accommodated and passed mot with no comment, other than above.

one front union to flexy  end front brakes  was a right soab, luckily it was the easy side, the l/h/side, with the pipe needing to be cut to replace tne flexy, so that was replaced via coupler and copper based pipe.

if you can afford a good flare tool ( sykes pickavant hand held ) then buy one, it will pay for its self quite quickly and if looked after, last many many years.

Had sykes pickavant vice mounted type prior to getting the hand held, but that was sold in the sale of the century ( bugger bugger bugger ), but the hand held one is a bit more versatile as it is less bulky and can be used on car in small tight areas.

Removing the lines from the splitterthingy just over the subframe. I will probably empty the reservoir of brake fluid then? And its not a clear path to the ground. Will the brake fluid destroy any rubber bushings it hits on the way, or is it nothing to worry about. Just try to catch as much as possible?

Keep the brake fluid clear of rubber and paint where possible, rinse off any spillages with plenty of water.

Will try to do that. Can barely get a hand in there

Crack the system open somewhere at the rear and drain down before opening the union's which are at the bottom of the bulk head/above the subframe.

To properly replace the main front to rear lines, the fue tank really needs to come out. It is do able without dropping the tank but you need child sized hands as the lines run up around the tank on the passenger side and are clipped in. They are an arse to get to. As are the union's at the front. A decent pair of mole grips and the right sized spanner help. If the union's are a complete pig and suffering from galvanic corrosion, you'll need two pairs of mole grips, a big bag of patience and an amount of luck. All this is bourne out of experience.....

This I have found out... Lurking the lines over the tank seems to doable. But disconnecting them at the connector over the subframe is a real lady garden! No room to use the tool, even if its on!

just use a brake pipe spanner, plenty of room, slacken the mounting nuts.

Got a brake pipe spanner, and loosned em But they arent finger loose yet. And I didn't bother removing the wheel, so its tight under there. Should probably remove the wheel

My piece of advice,

Do not remove the lines until you are ready to fit the new ones. sometimes it is best done 1 at a time, if you have done it a few times, then ignore me

you do not need a pipe bender, as the pipe does bend quite easily, but it is all too easy to kink. So if you are uncomfortable doing it by hand, then by all means use one . Remember no sharp bends, be gentle, and take your time. Its not a race

When you are ready to do a line, you can (as i have done) make the first connection (usually at the back and work forward) trace about 1ft, then cut the old pipe off when your happy with the shape, then do another foot, so forth and so on . this way they will look OEM, be neat and tidy. Did this to my Frontera, which was much easier, as i didnt need jacks to work comfortably under that thing. god i miss the beasty now . ...

good luck, and as always if any questions or help needed, post away and i am sure one of these fine guys will answer you 10 times better than i could lol.

Tony.

Thanks alot for the answer Got em loose, but haven't fully taken them off yet. Want the off so I can form the new pipe after it without having to be under the car. hehe

If you stick a sheet of plastic under it and tuck the end into a container it should catch the vast majority of the fluid, bit late now, sorry lol.

How do you intend on bleeding the system once you have fitted the new lines?

Plan was to bleed all the brakes. Do I have to bleed the MC as well? Never done it before, so will be a youtube learning job!

There are a few ways to do it,

start with the lines your replacing, do not back bleed them all. (this is where you pass fluid through the caliper upto the reservoir) as there is no fluid in the other lines, you will have massive airlocks.

I would.
conventionally bleed them all. it is a lot longer than back bleeding, but it will prevent airlocks, and it will mean you wont be just wasting fluids.

this is the only way i can see the you can guarantee there will be no air left in the system once your done

you will however require a 2nd person to press on the brake pedal as an when you crack off the bleed nipple.

Ok, so just conventionally bleed em all. Have 2L brake fluid waiting. And the GF can do the pedal pushing. Thanks for the advice!

I would use a pressure bleeder if possible, much faster and less chance of an used MC having its seals damaged from moving through a full stroke.

No bronze couplers like that on our 306 estate, just the male to female union couplers down under the ecu area going to the back, and a male/female coupler on the run to the drivers side ( r/h/drive british car market ) close to the brake servo.

I made some dummy very very short pipes with the correct unions for the ends of the pipe that i remove from the car.

Suitable short bit of pipe, flare formed and union slide on, then fold the open end and flatten with a hammer, fit these into the union on the car that you have just removed the pipe from, so the system does not empty. Have even used male to male coupler, so can use a bleed nipple.

I made 2 types for each of the unions used on the car, ie male and female.

initial bleeding i do is by gravity/syphon, till fresh clean fluid comes out of the very end of the pipe I have just fitted, then connect to the next section/hose/caliper etc, and repeat.

Catch drips in old jam jar or similar, then when happy as much air as possible is out of the pipe, bleed in the normal way.

Keep your eye on the master cylinder res fluid level and do not allow it to empty.

Meh. Caliper where the bleed nipple broke is shit. I have apparently managed to loosen it somehow. Was going to bleed it at the union, but the nipple is leaking loads..

I had a sheared bleed nipple issue on the front calipers, bosch, so stripped, cleaned sheared nipple, sheared flush with the caliper hole, used mig to remove.

welded blob to remains of nipple, welded another blob to the first, repeat, then welded prepared bolt 8mm with taper to last blob. gentle but firm turning of the bolt and nipple came out all ok. heat of welding and some extra heat helps. it works.