306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

Given the discussion around content in the How to improve 306oc thread, thought I would add some of my own.
So having been looking for a bianca 6 for quite some time now as I fell in love with Cully's,
I finally found one on gumtree.
Big deal you may say, but under downunder these things are damn near impossible to get hold of.
800 miles later it now sits in my garage and is my winter project in between doing the wife's bidding.

Surprisingly straight and despite the crappy appearance the paint is excellent.




and why it's buggered






The result of a dealership that obviously has no idea.
This thing has had 16 new valves fitted and started rattling after the work was done, They then proceeded to fleece a further $2500(have the receipts) from the previous owner by replacing 16 lifters, cam belt, tensioners, idlers and water pump, etc and it still rattled.
At that point the previous owner drove it home and parked it up where it's been sat for the past 2 odd years.

Rep points for the first correct guess of the rattle

It needs a few other things including getting rid of the ridiculous 3" exhaust, drivers seat, badges, a few bits of trim, etc.

I have new B8 fronts and grp N rears for it along with a set of brembos and suitably silly discs to fit up as well.
Also have a set of cyclones fitted up with new PS3's but I'm reluctant to use them as they're crap. and I want some proper motorsport wheels to go over the brembos.
Might add something like this as well





So all I have to do now is find me hammer

So what was the source of the ticking? Loose cam belt cover? D: Looks good and i like that someone has added a stone chip protector piece of vinyl to the bonnet. Havent see that on a 306 before.

If it's had that lot done, its been a snapper at some point. No mention of valve guides so I'll go with them....

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Also, what the heck is that odd looking orange pipe on the end of the throttle body?

(15-04-2016, 09:25 AM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]So what was the source of the ticking? Loose cam belt cover? D: Looks good and i like that someone has added a stone chip protector piece of vinyl to the bonnet. Havent see that on a 306 before.

Don't know yet, I haven't pulled it to bits.

(15-04-2016, 09:28 AM)Ben_w Wrote: [ -> ]If it's had that lot done, its been a snapper at some point. No mention of valve guides so I'll go with them....

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Apparently not a snapper but it did drop a valve (burnt) hence the new ones. No guides mentioned in the receipts either.

Quote:Also, what the heck is that odd looking orange pipe on the end of the throttle body?

It's a joiner to the air filter, equally as ridiculous as the exhaust.

timed up wrong by the garage and bent more valves

looks nice though great starting point

Racoon filter \thread

Yup, that's a tapper.

Will probably need 16 more valves and guides.

I like the stone chip guard! Wish I had had that on mine! My bonnet is disgusting!

(15-04-2016, 04:58 PM)Matt Wrote: [ -> ]I like the stone chip guard! Wish I had had that on mine! My bonnet is disgusting!

part of a dealer protection pack I think, done well for chips but there's a small dent under it so it'll have to come off.


So went to start this mongrel thing this morning and as of 11pm it still won't start.

Checked fuel and spark. pump primes(although it runs for 5 sec).
Changed the cam position sensor - long shot but I had one.
Bought a new battery.
Put it on pp2000 - no faults, ECU unlocked so immobiliser is working.
Looked at loom, found bodge on 2 injector cables so fixed them properly.
Still won't start so I guess the crank angle sensor has decided to spit the dummy.
It fires a couple of times but won't run.

they will run without the cam sensor just not very well
the flywheel sensor is the critical one

When you have PP2k running, it should say if the cam/crank has synchronisation under live data...

Check it definitely says "No Sync" when cranking so as you're not chasing a problem that doesn't exist

(16-04-2016, 02:50 PM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]they will run without the cam sensor just not very well
the flywheel sensor is the critical one

how 'bouts we just swap cars

(16-04-2016, 04:56 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]When you have PP2k running, it should say if the cam/crank has synchronisation under live data...

Check it definitely says "No Sync" when cranking so as you're not chasing a problem that doesn't exist

wish I'd thought of that , thanks Ruan

where exactly is this "no sync" under live data? I have readings from every sensor but nothing about cam or crank sensors

Update: I !@@##$%%%^ hate bosch spark plugs.
put some new NGK's in and it fires up immediately.

Almost the start of winter so made a head start (pun intended) on the tapping noise.
hmmmmmm!



bit hard to see but the reliefs on #3 are very shiny.



from this I'm guessing #3 bigend is not going to look to good

Ouch, was the cam timing out when you stripped the engine down?

Still blows my mind that you're going into winter as we're going into summer.

Looks like that's your tapping though lol.

Bet you the bearings will be absolutely fine on cyl3, if there was any resistance the weak valve stems would have snapped long before it did any damage to the bearings/conrod.

There was a discussion over on the 6 forum many years ago about the effect on big ends after a belt had snapped. A lot of people suffered big end failure after belt snapping but there was no conclusive evidence they were linked. Some were going a matter of weeks after, some 50k after.
Personally if it were me and i had the head off for a rebuild, id have the rods out, do the rings and big ends whilst i was there. Parts arent exactly expensive in the grand scheme of things and its easy to do in the state its in.

(14-05-2016, 08:44 AM)306Dan Wrote: [ -> ]Ouch, was the cam timing out when you stripped the engine down?

Timing was spot on

(14-05-2016, 08:51 AM)Toms306 Wrote: [ -> ]Still blows my mind that you're going into winter as we're going into summer.

Looks like that's your tapping though lol.

Well when I say winter it was still 20 degrees today

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(14-05-2016, 10:43 AM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]Bet you the bearings will be absolutely fine on cyl3, if there was any resistance the weak valve stems would have snapped long before it did any damage to the bearings/conrod.

(14-05-2016, 10:52 AM)Niall Wrote: [ -> ]There was a discussion over on the 6 forum many years ago about the effect on big ends after a belt had snapped. A lot of people suffered big end failure after belt snapping but there was no conclusive evidence they were linked. Some were going a matter of weeks after, some 50k after.
Personally if it were me and i had the head off for a rebuild, id have the rods out, do the rings and big ends whilst i was there. Parts arent exactly expensive in the grand scheme of things and its easy to do in the state its in.

This is exactly the thinking, When you stop and think about it.
The timing was spot on and #3 has rubbing in the cutouts and touched valves but only on this cylinder and only on the exhaust.
Would you not expect to see this or at least some marking on all 4 cylinders.?
The only other way valves are going to rub a single piston is either little end or big end clearance i would have thought.
The head is pretty close to it's last skim too.

Bigends, mains and thrusts are on order but I'm still deciding if I'll do the rings, the engine has been done before at some stage as the hone marks are still quite visible.
Of course if #3 bigend/littleend is gone then that changes the plan.

Hmm, I suppose they'd of rectified the timing when they did the lifters if it'd been out whether they'd noticed it or not

Incidentally the valves, they're not bent either. I've put them in the lathe and they're perfectly straight.

So I went a looking further down and into the bowels.
hmmmm! well that's just disappointing, me thinks they not mean't to look like this.





Surprisingly the crank mics up pretty good and only needs a polish.
The same can't be said for the rod though

So after collecting the required parts to put the motor right, I thought I'd better crack on with it.
She ended up with a new crank
King Race main and bigends
Hastings competition rings
some tricky pistons and rods
and a balance.

The head and valves turned out to be fine and given they weren't that old, they stayed.
It's been built with the intention of going higher in the performance stakes at some stage.
Just waiting on a couple of things then it's back into the hole with it.

I'm lousy at taking progress pics though.