306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

Are the 1.6 hdi engines as bad as made out on the Internet for blowing turbos, or is it just there is so many of them?

They need an oil change every 6000 and worth dropping the sump and cleaning it and the pickup pipe every few services aswell. They do give some turbo bother but if there looked after there a decent engine.

^this. They're a great little engine if looked after properly. The problem is that it's very easy to neglect them as they're very sensitive to wrong oil, overdue services etc.. Also it's worth changing the injector washers every few services, and checking the torque of the clamps every service.

If it's a DPF model, particularly the older ones with the Eolys fluid, they seem to be blocking constantly on the Ford forum...

Turbo's less often now but still fail. If you get a later one with the improvements around the turbo (no gauze in turbo feed and pipe no longer being cooked by DPF) and with the coated DPF it should be more reliable than an earlier one.

Have also seen weird fails with them though, like snapped con rods and damaged pistons on fairly low mileage.

Would I buy another? No chance!!

Tom just your comments alone are enough to put me off they seam too fragile for a work van and as i do lots of miles ill stick to a good old 2.0 hdi

I could put you off anything tbh lol. Like the opposite of a salesman...

But yeah, for a workhorse stay with the 2.0 imo. Can neglect them as much as you like and they rarely go wrong! Neglect a DV6 and it'll always be broken. They're also no better on fuel. And not exactly torquey if you're in a fully loaded van as well. Only plus point is the cheap tax.

My 306 was amazing a jp 135 map and a full turbo back exhaust pulled like a train just gutted the cambelt snapped or id still have it, if i get a expert/dispach/scudo i think i cant go far wrong just a shame they are so ugly

I used to have a C3  Picasso with the 1.6 Hdi and although it wasn't too bad to drive after I had it remapped,always sounded like it was working very hard.Also I thought it was a very 'dirty' engine,the oil went black straight away after a service even using really good oil so I agree with Conor that they should be serviced every 6,000 ! I had previously owned 2x 2.0 litre diesel Vectras and a 2.0 diesel Toyota - they were very 'clean' engines (oil wise ) and I was happy to do a more extended drain interval on them.
I do not think you can beat a lazier 1.9 or 2.0 litre diesel.

edit - I believe that the suggested drain interval for the Pic was 12,500 miles - no wonder they blew turbos LOL

DV6 engines go in everything and have been abused by everyone, hence we've seen a ton of failures. If you get one with good service history it'll be fine, remember the xud was known for blowing rods and hgs in it's day for similar reasons and these are essentially much higher performance engines. At least all the faults are now well documented and manufacturers have been finding solutions in the meantime.

2.0 > 1.6

"Tech Bulletins/Special Offers

PSA 1.6 Hdi Turbocharger Failure & Fitting Warning
PSA 1.6 Hdi Turbocharger Failure & Fitting Warning

ATTENTION: PLEASE READ THIS AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE FITTING THESE TURBOS TO YOUR CUSTOMERS VEHICLES
753420-ANY & 49173-07508 110 & 90/75 bhp
PSA 1.6HDi TURBOS, 2004- ONWARDS
The PSA 1.6HDi, DV6TED4 engine is a highly sophisticated low emission, high power diesel unit. It is used in many different applications Citroen, Ford, Mazda, Mini, Peugeot and Volvo.
Due to the engine being clean and powerful, it is designed to operate with high temperatures, which demands the very best lubricants. These lubricants must be maintained in peak condition and PSA have fitted an in-line oil filter to the turbo and an integral oil cooler/oil filter to this engine to ensure this. However there is a drawback to this, reports from in the field indicate that if the engine has been operated with the oil level below normal limits, this may potentially cause a high concentration of carbon in the oil. This may then lead to blockage of the in-line filter, oil cooler and main oil filter, which will eventually bring on premature turbo failure. The vacuum pump may also suffer from this same type of contamination. However, due to its high operating speeds (230,000 revs per minute) the turbo will usually be the first to show signs of damage. This can happen from 30,000 miles onwards if the oil level and correct oil change intervals/procedure have not been adhered to.
We have found that the carbon build up in this application is particularly difficult to remove. To try to eliminate the potential for further turbo failure the following MUST be undertaken by the garage, in addition to the normal recommended turbo fitting instructions:
· TURBO OIL FEED PIPE & BANJO BOLTS MUST BE CHANGED.
· OIL PUMP SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CHECKED.
· SUMP MUST BE REMOVED AND OIL STRAINER (PICK UP) SHOULD BE CLEANED/REPLACED BEFORE RE-FITTING NEW TURBO TO REMOVE RESIDUAL CARBON/SLUDGE BUILD UP.
· OIL COOLER AND FILTER ASSEMBLY SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CLEANED.
· REMOVE CHARGE AIR COOLER, DRAIN OFF ANY OIL INSIDE AND CLEAN THOROUGHLY.
· CHECK AND CLEAN ALL INLET AND OUTLET HOSES.
· IF OIL HAS LEAKED FROM PREVIOUSLY DAMAGED TURBO OR ENGINE INTO EXHAUST, CHECK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR CONTAMINATION/BLOCKAGE (CATALYST, DPF etc.)
· REMOVE BRAKE VACUUM PUMP TO CHECK FOR DEBRIS/CARBON AND CLEAN AS NECESSARY.
· FIT NEW OIL FILTER AND OIL.
· CHECK FUEL INJECTOR GASKETS ARE NOT BURNT OR COMPROMISED. REPLACE AS NECESSARY
· OIL FLOW MUST BE CHECKED:
o FIT TURBO TO ENGINE LEAVING OIL RETURN PIPE OFF
o INSTALL A LONGER OIL RETURN LINE AND FEED INTO SUITABLE CONTAINER
o START ENGINE AND IDLE FOR 60 SECONDS, THEN SWITCH OFF ENGINE
o MEASURE VOLUME OF OIL IN CONTAINER
§ 60 SECONDS OF IDLE SHOULD PRODUCE AT LEAST 0.3 LITRES OF OIL.
o REPEAT TEST TWO OR THREE TIMES TO CONFIRM OIL FLOW IS CORRECT
o DURING THIS TEST, DO NOT ALLOW ENGINE TO RUN BELOW MINIMUM OIL LEVEL!!
· VEHICLE SHOULD BE DRIVEN 20 to 30 MILES THEN THE OIL/FILTER REPLACED AGAIN.

Even after all the above has been carried out we cannot guarantee all carbon/oil sludge will be removed and you could still suffer a premature turbo failure. In the event of premature failure it is common for the impeller/nose nut to "come off", this is a consequence of a lubrication/turbine shaft failure & NOT a cause of turbo failure.

We feel that due to the possibility of further turbo failures on this engine it is only right to inform you before you purchase a replacement turbo for your customer. Currently we are experiencing a 15% failure rate of units we supply for this engine. Please feel free to speak to our engineers or sales team if you would like to discuss this issue further.

Any turbo returned under warranty will be subject to our standard terms and conditions.
We would also like to assure you that this is the only engine we have experienced these failure rates with. We as a company will always inform you of any ongoing issues to allow you to make the right judgement call for what you deem correct for your business."

If the turbo fails on mine, I won't bother even trying to replace it. I've seen too many threads over on FOC where people have had new turbo's die almost immediately, some even after being replaced at main dealer with all of the above done!

My turbo has sounded bad for months as well, not heard another like it, definitely not a VNT thing as I've had VNTs before, sounds like jamming a stick in a fan under hard throttle but there's nothing in there and everything has been off and checked during DPF stuff with no change to the noise. I just hope I can limp it home when it fails.

I bought the Pic as an experiment to see what the 'smaller' diesels were like - answer - I personally prefer a bigger lazier engine - I was more than happy to come back to an XUD although for power and easy tunability I would have preferred a 2.0Hdi,Torque is what makes road driving pleasant
The only thing I miss about previous more modern cars is Cruise Control - so handy on long Mway trips !

ahhh interesting stuff, there's a Focus in my unit with what I believe is a fuggered turbo, well its in the boot anyway

Yeah Citroen had to issue a special service bulletin for the 1.6 Hdi to tell their own techies how to do an oil and filter change

---

Managed to find the Citroen service bulletin for the 1.6 Hdi oil and filter change...
I think the important thing was to remove the silly upside down oil filter before the sump drain plug was removed to ensure that the dirty filter oil did not get dumped into the sump after the drain plug was refitted.

Quote:The engine oil temperature must be at least 50°C :

- the engine oil temperature is considered to be at 50°C when the water temperature indicator is between 80°C and 90°C or the cooling fan has cut in

• ensure that the vehicle is level (side to side and fore and aft)

• 
remove the oil filter first to allow the circuit to drain completely

• remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick

• remove the drain plug

• 
allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS)

• fit a new oil filter

• refit the drain plug with a new sealing washer

• fill the engine with quantity of oil recommended for the engine

• refit the oil filler cap and the dipstick

• run the engine at idle until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out

• wait 5 minutes

• check the oil level using the dipstick: the level should be as close as possible to, but not exceeding the maximum mark (1) so as to be between (1) and (3)

It doesn't help that they put the sump plug right in the middle on the flat...who's idea was that? Put it on the rear edge, angle the engine slightly and you'll get more out...

Did you do your own oil changes max'? I find it's still impossible to get all of the contaminated oil out with the proper method.

Also totally agree on the engine noise/strain...I'll bet your XUD sounds more refined. I pull away next to PDs and make those sound refined even...

Yes Tom - I did my own servicing,as I posted earlier I had previously owned 2x 2.0 litre vectras and a 2.0 litre Toyota - after a service the oil would be fairly clean for approx. 2,000 miles, I was quite shocked by the oil colour on the Pic within 100 miles of oil/filter change.
We had a similar discussion on the Pic forum - I was in the minority by saying do the service at 6 - 7,000 miles instead of the suggested 12,500 miles in the servicing schedule

Ah, missed that post lol! 6k changes are recommended by quite a few of us over on the Ford forum, as are shorter fuel filter changes and shorter cambelt changes lol. It's like they just picked numbers out of a hat for the intervals.

I guess there was also an element (geddit ) of having to compete with other manufacturers extended drain intervals LOL