306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

As above, cars going on the rolling road tomorrow and just found a split drive shaft boot leaking a little bit of oil, and brakes binding due to warped disc at thhe rear, will this affect results?
Cheers

Unless you've got one of the fabled rear wheel drive 306's I don't think the rear brakes will make much of a difference...

(18-03-2016, 10:27 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: [ -> ]Unless you've got one of the fabled rear wheel drive 306's I don't think the rear brakes will make much of a difference...

now that would be a project  

It has been done, someone stuck a 5.0 V8 ford GT engine in the back of one, it was on eBay for ages. Plus there's the rally car, cosworth 306 with the mid mounted V6.

they will hate you for running it with a leaky cv, might not even run it.

yeh rear brakes dont matter but the cv may be an issue.

Thanks guys, is there anything I can do as a temporary fix for the split CV Boot?

Won't make any difference to power reading as long as it's not a Dyno Dynamics in Shootout mode.

Or a really shit dyno/operator.

But they may pull your pants down if it shits CV grease everywhere.

(18-03-2016, 11:11 AM)MY95 Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks guys, is there anything I can do as a temporary fix for the split CV Boot?

If you can get one of those stick on boots that come in 2 halves maybe sticking that over the top of the existing one would work as a quick bodge?

Silicone Sealer for temporary job.

dont bother bodging it, it takes no more time and less mess to do the job properly with a decent boot, plus they last so much longer, remember how long o.e boots last?...

How does it take no more time? You can bodge it without removing the wheel even!

no f*cking about trying to glue a rubbery greasy thing, many times over because they are shit.

Pfft, you end up covered in CV grease regardless lol, seems to go everywhere!

Plus you have to spend hours ruining knuckles and elbows trying to get the bottom BJ out... Assuming he's got a 36mm socket and some way of removing the hub nut.

Easier in a garage with proper tools yeah, but not on a driveway with a socket set.

bottom bj is a doddle, and its 35mm not 36.

Halfords don't sell a 35mm impact socket though.

Bottom BJ isn't a doddle. After all these years I still can't get the knack for them! Tried levers and bars in every angle possible lol.

halfords do sell 35mm socket

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store...&langId=-1


if you cant do BJ's, best you put the spanners away.


all these years?! you're only 24

As already said, no its not going to effect power....However dont turn up to a dyno with a split CV joint as you are going to just get grease all over there dyno / rollers...and the worst thing possible on any rolling road is fluid of any form on the rollers

(18-03-2016, 01:23 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]halfords do sell 35mm socket

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store...&langId=-1


if you cant do BJ's, best you put the spanners away.


all these years?! you're only 24

Web exclusive... They don't sell them in the shop.

24 yeah but spent at least 5 years trying to fix 306s...

22 years messing with french tat here, anyway, your local factors will have a draper 35mm on the shelf for less.

All sorted guys cheers, also sorted out rear brakes too, stops and goes much better now

skim read, all I saw was BJ and grease

(18-03-2016, 01:23 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]halfords do sell 35mm socket

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store...&langId=-1


if you cant do BJ's, best you put the spanners away.

Everyone starts somewhere, I find them a twat also...

Try doing a bj on a 156.. they need to go upwards but the cv joint is in the way lol

Guys, Google this tool then go make one from a piece of wood (2*4) and your jack handle...

http://www.toolbits.org.uk/Files/71538/I...433100.jpg

DeeTurbo showed me the trick, it is very easy, near effortless and safe balljoint removal.
Once it out and the other work done, rejig the tool to help you lever it back in too.

Link no work

still only seeing BJs in this thread, I find grabbing a long shaft and giving it a smack down helps them come out quickly. find that those tools often split the rubber...

(23-03-2016, 09:55 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: [ -> ]Link no work

I think that it's meant to be this:

http://www.toolbits.org.uk/Files/71538/Img/21/T433100.jpg

I can't say that I generally find balljoints to be a problem - can be a little stubborn if they've rusted in place from not being removed in years, but generally speaking downwards pressure on the wishbone and pushing the hub inwards makes them pop out easily enough and crucially without damage.  It's rare that I need to resort to BFI using a balljoint splitter or similar.

Balljoint splitter for the lose.

And yes, missed jpg from the url, fixed now.