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Full Version: Damn spinning drop links
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Started changing the drop links today. First side took 10 mins. The other side is a big PITA!!  Angry

Bolt is spinning, both top and lower bolt. Its designed to use with a hex key, but they are rounded off. My hex key is damaged, but I also think the drop link side of it is as well.
And I get get any grips to actually hold it. Just spins in the grip as well. 

Used loads of wd40. And soaked it again before I left the garage.

Does anyone have any tips for me? Plan atm is to get a hack saw and try to cut it between the nut and the spacer. Any better ideas?

As you can see, the part I have to grip is also round(The picture is of the easy one)...
[Image: PHOTO_20160201_214253_zpswazh2j4z.jpg]
Cut them off with a grinder! Or a hacksaw job done.
Airgun them up and snap them
Not enough space for a grinder in there. And I would probably cut something I shouldn't in stead Tongue
Wouldn't an air gun just spin the boltthingy in stead of the nut? Tried a rattle gun, and that didn't do any good. Don't have an air gun either Smile

Hacksaw it is!
Jack under the droplink to keep pressure on it. then try to buzz it off.
Airgun has enough instant torque to do it. Easiest way to remove them
Do you already have the replacement drop links? If not buy the plastic ones and you will have no problem popping them off next time!
Mole grips tight as fcuk, grab on the rubber boot, always works for me.
If you are replacing them anyway pry the socket of the drop link off the metal ball part that runs into the bolt, there is usually something on the meal ball part you can get grips on.


Oh and also burn the f*ck outta them, melt the ny of the nylock nut and get everything red hot, they may buzz off a little easier then.
Thanks for all the tips! Mole grips did not hold the grip. Going to try to pry em off as dum-dum suggested. If that doesn't work, I'll just have to spend a couple of hours with my hack saw Tongue

Replacing with plastic ones Smile
Need to tighten up those molegrips...
They have never failed for me
grinder wins every time, plenty of space unless youre using a stihl saw...
(02-02-2016, 07:36 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Need to tighten up those molegrips...
They have never failed for me

Think mine is to wide. Gonna buy a more narrow one Smile
I use my biggest ones usually
(02-02-2016, 09:28 AM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]I use my biggest ones usually

I suck then Tongue
It just slides off. Maybe it will help to remove the rubber on the link.
ANGRY GRINDER!
(02-02-2016, 11:17 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]ANGRY GRINDER!

This. I do it all the time and roar as I do it.
Ginder or a nut splitter
Lol meh, bollock mole grips before you start and windy gun and will come right off, worst case just rip the drop link off and put mole grips on the ball, never let me down, quicker / easier than cutting it tbh.
Exactly as above, do this daily at work and very rarely have to cut anything.
Thanks guys!

Don't want to get the grinder out. Would be no problem at the bottom bolt, but the on on the shock doesn't have room for it. If I stick one in there, I wouldn't be able to see what I was doing Tongue Can't even get the rattle gun on the top one. No room.

Got some new better grips today. And a hacksaw as backup Tongue
How big is your rattle gun?!
Its kinda small actually. But couldnt get it on the top nut. Would have had to remove the inner arch :S

There were two different kinds of drop links on it. One was much thicker. Would think that could have made some imbalance in stability?

Anyways! Again. Thanks alot for all your help. Sometimes its nice to just hear that the idea you started with is the smart one. Removed the rubber from the old links, and the mole grip finally held it Smile All good now! And 90% of the cluncking in the car is gone!
Remove arch liner to get to the bolt!?!

Eh?

You have turned the hub for best access right?
(02-02-2016, 05:45 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Remove arch liner to get to the bolt!?!

Eh?

You have turned the hub for best access right?


No no. Didn't remove it. Your idea worked Smile