Going to change my discs and pads on the front this week sometime, how long does it take per side and what tools are needed?
Torx bits to remove the disc retaining screws, then just a socket set and ratchet
Depends how quick u are lol, about an hour for it all, maybe less maybe more.
Don't forget Copper grease and something to push Pistons back
Yeah, I was quite surprised just how easy a job this was! Definitely won't be paying a mechanic to do it ever again!
As said, a socket set, ratchet, and torx bits (T30 iirc) to get the retaining screws out, and give or take an hour depending how quick you are. Oh yeah, and something to squeeze the pistons back.
Might take a bit longer if it's your first time, but it's an easy enough job, about an hour to do both sides.
Okay thanks for that, I'll have to pick up some copper grease tomorrow, hopefully work have some I can pinch
I use proper Pagid cera-tec instead of copper grease for brake stuff now. Shouldnt have any issues with copper grease if you get it free though lol.
I tend not to put any copper great etc on the pads, as long as you get the carriers nice a clean with a wire brush/file and the pads are nice and free in the carriers that be fine. I look at is as the brake dust etc sticks to the copper grease and then may cause the pads to stick a bit. That's the way I look at it anyway
But yeah take about a hour to do
Squeeze the pistons back with the ratchet while the old pads are still in, just put it in and pry, Matt's top tip....lol
G-Clamp would do although you could get a piston winder for about £18ish, its a very handy lil tool to have in your toolbox
Make sure you take the cap off the fluid reservoir before squeezing pistons back, otherwise it's a great way to find weak seals in your master cylinder lol. I'd use proper brake grease as well, but there's nothing wrong with a bit of copper slip. Clean up the faces of the carrier and the sliders while you're there too, careful not to twist the brake hoses when you bolt the carriers back on.
Whoops yes good tip ^^^^^ cap off brake fluid reservoir, put an old rag round it in case of spillage too.
There's a vent hole, no need to take the cap off tbh
(15-10-2015, 07:04 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]There's a vent hole, no need to take the cap off tbh
surely makes it easier to push the pistons back I you do though.
Is it essential to use grease is it?
Do not use any old grease, otherwise it'll just melt when it gets hot and drip it all over the braking components - not good.
Use copper grease and red rubber grease for the sliders.
you may also have to suck some fluid out of the m/cyl res, old pad wear, disc thickness and fluid level dependent....brake fluid is/was a great paint stripper.....how "black" is the fluid??
murphies law says you may have to drill the torques disc screws......a wire brush is also a good tool to have........and a mask or well ventilated area......
do one side at a time, and then fit the wheels back on, BFC time??
(15-10-2015, 06:52 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: [ -> ]Whoops yes good tip ^^^^^ cap off brake fluid reservoir, put an old rag round it in case of spillage too.
yes definitely remember to remove the cap... and dont get angry with the piston and then put it between the jack and the car to get it back in...
(15-10-2015, 08:32 AM)aaron_one Wrote: [ -> ]Is it essential to use grease is it?
I don't think it is as long as everything moves freely
One thing I see a lot of people do as a rookie error.
When you try to push the piston back, don't expect it to go with a nice easy movement. Instead, find your prying tool of choice (I use a big flat head) and just apply pressure to the piston and it will creep in. I see so many people trying to shock them with loads of force and it just won't have it lol
just took me 4 hours to do a disc rear beam brake change nd oil change!
bloody handbrake levers were seized
Well it's going terribly, one wheel but sheered off, both cv boots are non existent and I think the brakes need bleeding. Needless to say it's going to be a weekend job
Welcome to french car ownership!
This is my 5th French car I knew i was in for a rough ride haha
Changed them finally today, however when I put the wheel back on I spun it to see if it spins freely but the drivers side binded on a certain point, is this normal until the pads wear in?
What would cause something like that and a break squeak constantly while driving?
Warped discs or stuck pads usually.
Fingers crossed it's a stuck pad and not a brand new warped disc
Did you clean up and grease the sliders?
And a very important part is to clean the face of the hub before fitting new discs. Essential tbh