wtf is the flywheel locking hole in the engine please, or do you have to remove the starter motor to gain access to it?
I can see the starter ring gear teeth as well as the flywheel sensor teeth ( similar to abs sensor "teeth" ) but cannot find a hole in the flywheel for the locking pin/tool.
Could someone post a pic of the holes or give a location, as well as a pic of the f/wheel locking pin please.
You have to pull the starter motor out to get to it.
Iirc it's 6mm Alan key or drill bit to lock it off.
![[Image: stick_paint_roller_handle.jpg]](http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/1145246/12524038/0/1271485177/stick_paint_roller_handle.jpg)
One of these is pretty useful.
(30-06-2015, 10:24 AM)kentiiboii Wrote: [ -> ]You have to pull the starter motor out to get to it.
Iirc it's 6mm Alan key or drill bit to lock it off.
Never. Not once have I had to pull the stater out on xuds or hdis for the locking. Hole. Or Tu engines for that matter.
Had to take starter out to get to the locking hole on my xud.
What you doing different?
With the correct tool you can do it with the starter in place, but it's a bit awkward without (although possible)
It is awkward, but very much possible, slip a 6mm allen key behind starter from underneath and wiggle it round, it'll eventually drop into the hole, once it slips in the hole, just get a bit of an extension on your 1/2" ratchet and spin the engine over by hand with your other hand placing pressure on the allen key and you'll feel it clunk into the flywheel when it gets to the right position - easy!
If it's your first time you'll never find the hole with the starter in place tbh... I spent ages trying to find it! Whipped the starter off in a minute or so (its only 3 bolts!) and done it straight away lol.
After you've seen it once it's much easier to access with the starter in place though.
Again, you don't need to take out the starter
Slide a 6mm Allen key, using the longer end to get into the hold, Giggedy, and just keep wiggling with your fingers, doublegiggedy
You can see it from underneath if you get the right angle, using a paint roller handle as suggested makes it pretty easy to fish around for the hole. Certainly easier to get the locking tool in from underneath, absolutely no need to remove the starter. That said, if it's your first time and you've already been struggling for a while, perhaps that would be the best way for you to continue.
Old paint roller.. Now my special tool for it lol
Paint rollers are grant, but IME can leave a little too much slop when putting back together - even a 6mm allen key has slop, but less than the paint roller - whatever you use, bulk it out to be ~6mm.
A 6mm allen key has slop because you need an 8mm to fit
Its an 8mm shaft in the cam and a 8mm into the flywheel on these engines.
What are you trying to do if you want to lock the flywheel off?
changing the belt I'd imagine...
I thought it was 8mm? tu is smaller at 6mm.
btw, NEVER use the pin to lock the engine, only to get its timing position
I made one in the end. Smoothed a bolt down till it was a tight fit, then bent the end to make a 'handle'
never have I needed to remove the starter either!
Thanks for all the replies, need to find the hole for when its cam belt time ( pun ) .
Also the engine steady affair at the rear of the engine, the big round one.......the round bush bolt is easy to remove by the looks, but does the vertical bolt at the other end of the "steady" come out without taking the "air pipe" the black plastic looking affair above the vertical bolt??
Its fitted the correct way at the moment, ie, self locking nut at the bottom.
Pretty sure I used an 8mm drill bit, after moving the starter out of the way.
Why are you removing the lower engine mount fork? It doesn't need to be removed to do the cambelt, or anything up to and including taking the engine out.
Even I didn't need to remove the starter, although if you move the wiring to be side above the starter you can look down the back and see where it is, then slide up a paint roller from underneath to time it
My method is thus : Tape an Allen key to a bolt, locate the hole behind the starter using a torch and slot the Allen key in. Now fit the drivers wheel and turn with your foot (in fifth) while applying pressure to the locking Allen. When the pin slots in check the cam, if it is aligned shove your cam lock in and get on with t job
ok, I think I have found the hole after probing around with my finger ( as you do ).
On our 306 hdi there are some apertures as if a tin plate between the engine and gearbox is missing, ala old fords etc, but the lower tin plate ( semi circular one ) is there.
I will be removing this lower tin guard to find the flywheel timing hole.
After sometime looking for the hole in the engine ( its not by the solenoid as the Haynes manual suggests, it even shows a sketch suggesting the hole is in line with the crank, which is what I was assuming ), I think I have found it below the starter motor and cyl head oil return "elbow".
It feels like an 8mm ish hole and is at 90 degrees to the crank, meaning a "slot" in the flywheel to take the locking "rod".
No text or picture in the Haynes manual suggests this, so could someone confirm please.
As above, the haynes manual is correct. I'm not sure you'll be able to see the timing hole from the gap under the sump, pretty sure it sits too close to the centre of the flywheel for that. Look higher up the block from where you have been, it's behind the starter motor, not underneath.
Is the flywheel locking hole viewable in this image?
I have the starter off mine currently, and have only given it a quick look but couldn't see anything under the starter?
Must be there though
(28-08-2015, 09:26 AM)tigerstyle Wrote: [ -> ]Is the flywheel locking hole viewable in this image?
I have the starter off mine currently, and have only given it a quick look but couldn't see anything under the starter?
Must be there though
that's a useful diagram, could you repost it with all the picture please as well as any text/part numbers?
much appreciated.
how is the cam oil return elbow held in please.
I tried to copy and paste the diagram but that didn't work.