Hiya guys. Just bought a w reg Hdi estate. It's on 17" vortex wheels. I really want more lows. Does anybody off the forum offer a lowering service? Would try tackle it myself but am recovering from shoulder injury. Thanks
Where abouts in the country are you?
I do them
I'm in South Yorkshire not sure where you are
Jamie it's my brother so in the south west I could do it my self but not quite confident with them yet. Done mine but bit different doing other peoples.
meh its alright when you have done it as many times as i have and have a load of spares. is it a disv beam?
Ha Yeh I can imagine. Yeh mate got a gti6 rear axle on it.
should be fairly easy then as you can just take the caliper off and pull the trailling arm arm out (as its bound to be seized in the trailing arm) . that way you dont have to re bleed etc
no need to pull the trailing arm off.
Yeh I was going to say I never took trailing arm off mine
How you do it without taking the trailing arms out? I think its easier to do it with taking them out plus you can check and re grease the bearings
There is if the torsion bar is completley seized in the arm
you can't re-grease the inner bearing, if they need more grease they're shot.
if the bar is seized, you're not trying hard enough, and you wont be able to lower it properly anyway.
I wd40d my torsion bars for 6 weeks before I done the job and they pretty much slid out one was a little tight but as to be expected. But didn't have any need to take trailing arms off
That confuses me. I know that it isn't really possible to get my arm in with grease to do the in bearing but I put some on the shaft so hopefully that gets onto the bearing.
And as for the bearing being shot I disagree with that. From what I see the bearings don't have hardly any grease on them from factory which can't really help. So greasing them up in my eyes is a good thing obviously as long as the bearings are all ok.
And from my experience the torsion bar is quite often seized in the trailing arm which I can't see how you would get it out the axle without damaging too much. The way I do it wether it is right or wrong is use some heat on the training arm and then it usually comes out easy with a hit with a hammer
bearings tend not to have any grease at all from the factory, you grease them up when fitting...
you wont get grease in there by sticking it on the shaft as the seal on the bearing will wipe it off.
WD40 is shite for jobs like these, you need to use a penetrating oil/fluid, WD40 is not one of those.
Ah fair enough seemed to work okay on mine. Mainly for getting all the dirt and stuff out I suppose. Either way I don't really know if the way I done it was right or wrong but seemed to work fine. And by the sounds of things everyone else's way seems to work aswell. ? ? ? ?
(29-04-2014, 12:44 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]you can't re-grease the inner bearing, if they need more grease they're shot.
if the bar is seized, you're not trying hard enough, and you wont be able to lower it properly anyway.
What the f*ck are you actually talking about, its never seized beyond the point of removal, that you cant "lower it the proper way" and if you think that you aint trying hard enough
(29-04-2014, 02:47 PM)Frosty Wrote: [ -> ]That confuses me. I know that it isn't really possible to get my arm in with grease to do the in bearing but I put some on the shaft so hopefully that gets onto the bearing.
And as for the bearing being shot I disagree with that. From what I see the bearings don't have hardly any grease on them from factory which can't really help. So greasing them up in my eyes is a good thing obviously as long as the bearings are all ok.
And from my experience the torsion bar is quite often seized in the trailing arm which I can't see how you would get it out the axle without damaging too much. The way I do it wether it is right or wrong is use some heat on the training arm and then it usually comes out easy with a hit with a hammer
Totally agree frosty , Its much better to pull the bar with the trailing arm if its stiff, soak it in some good penetration oil , get some heat on it and tap it gently
eThis way you dont rip the threads out the end of the bar rendering it usless
I'm talking about rear beams, fook knows what you're talking about!
Gotta agree with frosty and puglove here how we've Done our beams never had a problem,
As for not greasing i cant see any logic in that
Just having grease in the tube will seal out moisture from the bearings if nothing else. The seals should be replaced obviously anyway
I had to bray the shit out of mine to get it of the near side, but my axle was sat in a scrappy for 8 months but once it started moving it was free as a bird
Price wise what would it be looking at to have so,embody drop it for me? Cheers
(29-04-2014, 05:01 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]I'm talking about rear beams, fook knows what you're talking about!
Flol!
You guys realise welshpug knows his shit? And is right, if it's seized on that bad and you can't get it out, knocking the arm off isn't the proper way to do it, as by doing that you can still disturb the bearings
Yeah but our point is take the trailing arm right out so you can check the bearing and grease them up which i think is good for them right? Also how do you replace the main tube seals without taking the trailing arms out?
These are just my forts on these axles anyway
There isn't any point in re-greasing, just fit new ones, if the grease has gone the bearing is going to be shot.
Oh well i like to grease them up to try and help them stay as a good bearing but we all have our different opinions. But at the end of the day you dont know if the bearings are ok or not unless you take the trailing arms right the way out. I had a axle with NO play and when i took it apart the bearing where shot.
Agree with me frost a bearing is a bearing so you either have oil or grease on it it's like having a taper roller wheel bearing and not greasing it well this it my thorts us Devon boys will do it how we do it plenty of grease and slap it together
I agree with frosty but I have no idea what your all on about
