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Full Version: Trailing arm pin removal.
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So how do you get them out then?Huh Iv'e been heating them up and whacking them out from the furthest part inside the tube out towards the drum end and they have moved about 20-25 mm or so but seem a bit stuck .Am I going the right way and need a bigger blow torch and hammer (i'm already using a 4lb lump hammer),or am I doing it all wronng?
Cheers,Danny.
Trailing arm pin? Do you mean the trailing arm shaft (goes into the beam tube, allows arm to pivot) or the stub pin (the short 'pin' that has the hub nut on it)?

Shaft goes from inside to out and you'll need a press.

Stub pin, hub-nut over end to protect threads and give it whack with lump hammer (preferably with soft metal drift e.g. copper/brass). Couple of thumps should have it out. Or, if the arm is off the car and you have access, then a press makes it a piece of piss.
Ideally both should be pressed in/ out.
They are both extremely tight and i was unable to beat the shaft out without damaging it to the point it would have been useless.

The stub pin was a little easier but still fcuking tight!
Not bothered about damaging it,its proper fubared,thats why i want it out.
I have access to a 5 ton press,a geared old skool one,not hydraulic.Give that a go with some heat,then probably have to hire/find a hydraulic one.
Cheers fellas.Danny.
(19-12-2013, 05:23 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]Not bothered about damaging it,its proper fubared,thats why i want it out.
I have access to a 5 ton press,a geared old skool one,not hydraulic.Give that a go with some heat,then probably have to hire/find a hydraulic one.
Cheers fellas.Danny.

You'll want more than 5T. My press is 10T and even that struggles sometimes.
As Alan says i cant see 5T budging it!
They are pushed into the centre of the beam,away from the brakes. and i did mine with a hammer, bit of wood and an old socket. there not tight