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Full Version: top mount postion
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Right as most of you no im trying to get the coilovers about 20mm lower on the front but as im on bump stops I kinda cant, mate of mine said try and put the top mount ontop of the suspensoin tower instead of underneath, problem im having is I cant find any french cars that have done it but alot of vag cars have, I want to give it ago but dunno if I have to use stronger bolts? Or do any 'custom' work todo it

Can anyone help dont really want to go down the road and cause alot of damage
cut/remove bump stops!?

seems big dodgy to me putting the top mount on top of the mounting point.

would it clear the bonnet?!
Sounds dodgy as f*ck.
i've seen it done on a saxo, it did clear the bonnet, until the bolts sheared at the first bump which shot the top mount and damper rod up and killed his bonnet and front bumper lol
Vag cars can modify the turrets because there is space to do it, there isn't alot of space on a 306 between the bonnet and turret
I imagine if you got a thick plate made up, like 8/10mm which sat in the place of the original top mount, had threads put in it, then bolted the coilover top mount down through and into the plate, that would do a better job. still dodgy though.

Just wack a 2.1 in there...that will drop it by 20mm!
Thats alright then dont want to be shearing bolts and fair point didnt think about the bonnet clearance and if got 3mm of bumpstop left they were on 35mm
Did you consider cutting of the wee tab that aligns the coilover in the hub and rewelding it futher up.
Yeah dont want todo it to gaz coilovers though im getting some ta technics todo the tab bit with
Just grind it off, no need to reweld.
(30-09-2013, 09:50 PM)tigerstyle Wrote: [ -> ]Just grind it off, no need to reweld.

It's there for a reason.
As is the pinch bolt Smile
Its do-able but seriously dodgy ground. The standard top mount isn't really held in by its bolts but by the fact its pushing up on a massive bit of chassis (and having cut up a chassis I know how meaty the turrets are).

IMO you would be wiser getting access to a lathe and making some custom top hat style top mounts as they would be a piece of piss to make. Baker BM may even make you a pair if you were nice to them, as they have the facilities if you do them drawings.
personaly i think this is better than the cutting the tap off and relying on the pinch bolt idea the was spoke about before


id recomend using a compbrake style top mount . then a plate on the inside with some super high tensile bolts with a nut on rather than using the thread in the top mount to hold it

but you are going to have to use some bonnet spacers or cut away the iner skin .
Id be getting a massive lump of playdough to see how much space you have between the bonnet and the strut top first as I reckon with some clever engineering you could find 20mm without having to alter the bodywork
So as I'm nice I thought I'd draw a pic of a top hat mount compared to standard top mounts

[attachment=10563]
Perhaps a shorter set of coilovers would work? Long as the tab that fits the pinch fits and the top mounts are correct the fact the components are physically smaller should help
Shortening the shock rod might help? My car is quite low like yours and i find if i hit bumps at more than 10 mph it feels as if the shocks are bottoming out or hitting some kind of bump stop? Though i imagine it to be quite expensive to take the shock apart to shorten the rod
Or maybe have the pinch tabs ground off and have new ones welded on further up the shock so that shock goes further down into the hub?
Been speaking to chris about this, the problem with gaz coilovers is that the body is to long, looking how chris's is sat on avo's and telling me the body problem and also telling me every 20 seconds that his 6 is 20mm lower than mine so going to look into a set of 205 coilovers