306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

Goes welding the diff make it a nightmare to drive normally??

Yeah as it may be a daily aswell the 330 d ticks the economy box's but a petrol would probably be more fun and cheaper.

(12-02-2015, 11:14 AM)7057sam Wrote: [ -> ]Goes welding the diff make it a nightmare to drive normally??

Yeah as it may be a daily aswell the 330 d ticks the economy box's but a petrol would probably be more fun and cheaper.

I've been driving with a welded for almost a year, it's not noticable over 25mph, you notice it when your parking or doing a slow speed turn. Not really ever bothered me to be honest consider how much more control you have of the car when you do get the back end out.

If it's a nice 330D I'd be worried about giving it battle scars..

Supposedly so yes, but I've not driven one personally so can't comment from that respect. Although I think trent would disagree and think it's the best thing since sliced bread lol, but his isn't a daily.

Well a 330d will probably be around 1-2k more than the equivalent petrol, but they do map up well. But are more expensive to fix and repair etc..

(12-02-2015, 11:21 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: [ -> ]Supposedly so yes, but I've not driven one personally so can't comment from that respect. Although I think trent would disagree and think it's the best thing since sliced bread lol, but his isn't a daily.

Well a 330d will probably be around 1-2k more than the equivalent petrol, but they do map up well. But are more expensive to fix and repair etc..

It was my daily for the best part of a year before I got the tango-mobile!

Fair enough, still not something I'd do personally.

(12-02-2015, 11:47 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: [ -> ]Fair enough, still not something I'd do personally.

Don't knock it 'til you've tried it.

Said it so many times lol mine is not a drift car and isn't going to be. Welded is all well and good for going sideways but that's it.

My cars been featured in Chris Browns latest hit Ayo.

Check it out, next to the purple lambo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKCrSN9oXgQ

Have tidied some bits up on the car. Such as cutting the centre console to fit around the hydro, clearing mud out the wings, making radiator brackets and making new FMIC brackets that don't sit so low.





Attaching rear speakers properly so no rattles!



Been playing with differentials, have a 3.7 LSD, 3.7 welded, 3.9 welded and 4.1 welded at my disposal. Refurbing the 4.1 at the moment.





Swapped my non ABS nose out in favour of an ABS style one so the prop won't need stretching.



After being disappointed that 6x2 output cups won't fit into the R33 casing I'm now on the hunt for some 5x1 shafts.



Also went to roll my arches and fit the 18s but they're not quite going to bolt straight on. For starters the 265/35 tyre is far to wide!

(This is with car jacked off he ground so suspension under no compression)











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Your gonna need spacers to run those

(25-02-2015, 12:10 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]Your gonna need spacers to run those

Yeah, got a few different ones to try. 5mm, 8mm, 25mm.

Went to fit my R33 diff for a second time and found the shafts are wrong again.

Just gonna bite the bullet and fork out on some R33 drive shafts I think.

Every 3x2 cup isn't the same as the 5x1's...





Also fitted new gates belts to the girl.



In other news the exhaust manifold has died a painful death.

I've got a standard cast one on the way as they're supposed to be a lot stronger and not prone to cracking as well as being good for up to 350 bhp.

Here's a few pictures of the one on the car, produces a solid 0 psi now.





If anyone can advise on welding to cast iron then feel free to speak up...!




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Get cast iron rods for arc welder.. Bout the best your gonna do but i wouldnt expect it to hold for too long tbh

just weld that one back up!

why are you asking about welding a cast manifold anyway?

Mike and Jimbo welded a GT17 to a T2/K14 manifold with an Arc

Just used special rods.

(02-03-2015, 03:21 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]just weld that one back up!

why are you asking about welding a cast manifold anyway?

The replacement one I've bought is a standard one which is good for 350 bhp / any T28.

They're made of cast so don't suffer from the cracking issues like these stainless ones.

These cheapo ones always crack, if it gets welded back up it'll crack again within 6 months I can garantee it.

(02-03-2015, 04:30 PM)mr_fish Wrote: [ -> ]Mike and Jimbo welded a GT17 to a T2/K14 manifold with an Arc

Just used special rods.

I have my little ba-ba 160MIG and mate has his selection of industrial 3 phase 200+ MIG's so probably be asking him nicely to have a go at it for me..

I welded my gt20 to my K14 manifold with an arc, normal rods, heated up the mani till it was cherry red beforehand, on the advice of a 70 year old welder/lorry mechanic.

Is this the same manifold you had to mole grip that time at combe? Or am i thinking of something else

(02-03-2015, 08:30 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]I welded my gt20 to my K14 manifold with an arc, normal rods,  heated up the mani till it was cherry red beforehand, on the advice of a 70 year old welder/lorry mechanic.

I've read mixed reviews. Some people saying don't bother, others saying blow torch it until it's warm to the touch but not hot enough that you can't keep your hand on it.

(03-03-2015, 07:15 AM)lolsteve Wrote: [ -> ]Is this the same manifold you had to mole grip that time at combe? Or am i thinking of something else

Yes steve, it really is.

Trusty.

I'd add some bracing and keep that one tbh, simply welding as you know wont help, so there must be an inherent flaw, probably the hefty lump of turbo and a downpipe dangling on it!

(03-03-2015, 10:08 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]I'd add some bracing and keep that one tbh, simply welding as you know wont help, so there must be an inherent flaw, probably the hefty lump of turbo and a downpipe dangling on it!

It's exactly that.

People say putting a flexi in the downpipe and a brace has cured they're problems.

As welshpug says it's probably weight and flex causing that. Stainless doesn't like to flex, it's pretty hard stuff. It doesn't absorb heat well either so if you do heat it it tends to stay localized and that can cause cracking. I don't want to put the jod on ZX_Volcanes manifold but we warmed the whole thing up in the forge till it was glowing orange as evenly as possible to try and stress relieve it and hopefully minimize the chances of what's happened to yours. The brackets on the turbo also support it's full weight without relying on the manifold at all.

(03-03-2015, 11:47 AM)Paul Baldwin Wrote: [ -> ]As welshpug says it's probably weight and flex causing that. Stainless doesn't like to flex, it's pretty hard stuff. It doesn't absorb heat well either so if you do heat it it tends to stay localized and that can cause cracking. I don't want to put the jod on ZX_Volcanes manifold but we warmed the whole thing up in the forge till it was glowing orange as evenly as possible to try and stress relieve it and hopefully minimize the chances of what's happened to yours. The brackets on the turbo also support it's full weight without relying on the manifold at all.

That's what I need, some brackets and a bit of flexi pipe. Might be able to bodge something up with some scrap metal and the welder..

Saying that, the cast manifold I'm planning to fit will take all the flex/abuse without crying about it I'm sure...!

They look like this:



On a similar note, what nuts would people use for attaching mani to head? Copper? Brass? Stainless? Zinc plated steel? Bla bla bla?

Anythings better than the direct vent to atmosphere you have at the mo

Following on from this I've had a busy week putting the effort in every evening.





So got that welded up and bought a cast mani as a spare / back up in case it went tits up.





So got that back on and my god the cars transformed! Feels so much faster and spins the wheels so much easier. Think I must've had a fair leak for a while as it just feels so much nicer now.

Also put a flexi in the down pipe but subsequently it now sits about 1.5 inches off the floor and scrapes on EVERYTHING which will probably end up with the turbo ripped off again. 3" downpipe is definitely on my shopping list now... Or a twin pipe for clearance.



Drift on.

That welding is gonna snap again soon buddy, I'd be welding on some serious bracing.

(08-03-2015, 12:51 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]That welding is gonna snap again soon buddy, I'd be welding on some serious bracing.

Buying a new manifold and bracing it up, no point continuing with this shit one, this is just to keep me going for a minute.

did you not shorten the downpipe when installing the flexi?

(08-03-2015, 01:01 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]did you not shorten the downpipe when installing the flexi?

Nope, tried and failed to. Wouldn't stretch the rest of the exhaust enough to meet it when shortened.

erm, wut?!